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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

fuel pump

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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 02:50 PM
  #31  
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larryb346
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There is zero problem installing a filter between the pump and tank. Most tanks, if not new, have dirt and rust in them. It that rust is allowed into the fuel pump it will clog up the check valve and hold it open and allow fuel drain back to the tank and other issues. As for the fuel leaking when you change that filter, how many times are you going to do this? Maybe once every couple years unless your tank is nasty or you get water. I had much rather have a slight amount of fuel drip on my arm every couple years than replace a fuel pump because it is full of rust and trash. Not much fuel is going to run out is you change the filter. I run two, one near the tank and one after the fuel pump. Many carbs have a filter on the inlet side built into the carb. The alcohol based fuel will have a lot more water issues than the older fuels. So bottom line is I guess I agree with your dad, however I am older than dirt and us old guys gotta stick together.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 03:24 PM
  #32  
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From: Kansas City, MO
Originally Posted by bobbytnm
The steel braided lines are great. Id use them , especially if thats what came in the kit. For the rear you can get just about anything you need. I think the one I ended up using is from a Jeep (my brother-in-law is big into rock crawling and always has some great left over parts that I can snag for free). he replaced it because it was to short after installing his lift kit.

Its good to question the ol' man, just keep in mind that he's been around a long time and has lots of experience and....dang it....(this is the tough part)...he's right most of the time...(shhhh, don't tell my ol' man I said that)

Bobby
I won't tell my dad that either. I'll just say "well if you think it's going to work then we'll do it that way, but when the pump gets clogged, you're buying a new one." This will give me the time I need for him to forget that I ever mentioned it. And if he does, I'll remind him that it's only a matter of time before it gets clogged, so he had better have his check book ready.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 08:07 PM
  #33  
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Larry, I agree with your assessment of the potential for rust in the tank ruining the pump, but the right way to address that is to clean the tank and Kreme it. Note also that Derek's tank is new.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 08:52 PM
  #34  
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Ross
I sure agree the right way is to have a clean fuel delivery system and I did notice the new tank. I guess I think others might read these post and learn something from them. You and I know not everyone will have a new tank and hopefully discussions like these help others just beginning to work on old vehicles learn the right and wrong way to do some things. Its all about learning and trying to teach. I was on a old ford forum and one of the regular guys died. One of the other guys said something I will never forget and I try to remember it in all my post. He said when an old guy that has worked on cars 50 plus years dies, its like a library burning down. All the knowledge in those books and in his head is gone forever and hopefully some of his knowledge has been passed around. I learn something every time I read these forums and hopefully can occasionally share knowledge with someone and help prevent a mistake or encourage someone to do something safer.
Sorry for the long post but hopefully you can see where I am coming from.
I'm just a new guy here.
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Larry
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 12:20 AM
  #35  
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Well tiger ya went and did it. You opened the door for my most favorite and infamous Previous Owner gripe!!!!!

Here is a picture of my Big Ford 9 3/8 rear end with the NEW steel braded flex hose (they are rubber inside, the brading just adds support, protective cover, and prevents bursting - and of course it's pretty).



You can see how the flex line allows the rear end to float and provides for movement between the two rigid lines. I had it made specifically for this by a local company that makes hydraulic hoses (they need to be rated for brake fluid as it eats through just about anything) for cars, tractors and machines. It has a spin fitting on one end so it's very easy to install. It was $25.

The previous owner couldn't find the right hose to use here so he installed a GREASE GUN HOSE!!!!! I was testing my master cylinder rebuild and stomped on the brakes - HARD, and the grease gun hose blew out! Unbelievable!

The strange second hose you see atached to the larger copper tube is a collector for the SAE 90 oil that my differential breather vent used to blow all over the bottom of the truck.



Julie
 
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