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How do the pieces stack when mounting the cab?

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Old May 26, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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Question How do the pieces stack when mounting the cab?

I am trying to mount the cab back onto the frame of my '50 F1. I know there are 3 mounting points. I have the rear most ones put on. My question is about the pieces of the front two. I'm not really sure exactly how they are supposed to be stacked. The "nipples" on them (I think that is a technical term....haha) are what I'm having problems with. I'm not sure which way they are supposed to face. And now that I think about it, I didn't have any rubber between the cab and the frame. I just had rubber on the top and bottom. HELP!!! Could someone just let me know the order they go in (1-7) and if the "nipples" face up or down. And also where the metal parts go (e.g. 1, cab, 2 with nipple down, 3, frame, etc).



I believe the middle mounting spot has the exact same pieces except it is a different bolt. I left the stuff at my dad's, so I don't have it to take a picture of.

Also, I have a big hunk of rubber (yep...another technical term). I'm sure it goes smashed between the cab and frame. I would guess on the back side, close to the bed. But it has a weird shape to me that makes me think it goes in a specific spot. I've looked and looked and can't find where to put it. Can anyone tell me where I should put it? A picture would be great!



Thanks in advance.
 
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Old May 26, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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I didn't put it in the picture, but #6 is a metal washer too.
 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 12:40 AM
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Here is a diagram of the cab mounts. The odd rubber piece is the "PAO" in the drawing, it goes between the "Cab to Frame Suspension Arm" and the "Suspension Arm Bracket". Hope this helps :

 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 09:27 AM
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Thanks Bob. That definitely helps. Looking at the diagram, I put the suspension arm on upside down. I am not sure that it would make much of a difference turning it around, but I'll go ahead and do it while I am working on the cab.

Any idea where the big hunk of rubber goes???
 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 09:43 AM
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Derek,

Look at my reply, I have the rubber part IDed, the PAO in circle #3. You need it inserted in that area, it cushions the movement of the cab so you'll have to remove at least one bolt in the arm.
 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 09:59 AM
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Good work Bob, nice picture, thanks. “PAO” at one time in its life, before multiple scans, might have been ”PAD”, depending on how I tilt my trifocals?
 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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derek, just went through the same thing. here's an exploded view of what the those pictures show. sorry its not the greatest. the numbers relate to the picture you posted.

 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 08:11 PM
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Thanks again Bob. I read that this morning when I wasn't quite awake. It makes a lot more sense now. I'm going to head over there now and will hopefully have the cab mounted and start on the bed before I'm too tired.

ghart, thanks for your diagram too.
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 01:08 AM
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Thanks for the help guys. I got the cab mounted tonight.

I was lacking help, but with 2 bottle jacks and a lot of determination, I got all the bolts on and tightened down. The bed goes on tomorrow. Here's a pic for your enjoyment.



Looking at the pic, I think I need a bigger engine. We'll see once I get the front clip on. Haha.
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Old F1
Good work Bob, nice picture, thanks. “PAO” at one time in its life, before multiple scans, might have been ”PAD”, depending on how I tilt my trifocals?
I think you're right
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tiger_698
Thanks for the help guys. I got the cab mounted tonight.
Nice work..... but...........Holy double digit poop, stop ………….have I got bad news for you, …………you have to either take the cab back off or take the engine out to weld the 1267 holes if the firewall, body filler, sand until blue, and paint! Yikes!
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 02:31 AM
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1267???

Unfortunately, money isn't something I have a lot of right now. Going to school full time doesn't allow me to work as much as I would like. So I can't afford a whole lot. And I am such a perfectionist that if I were to have it painted, it would have to have a lot of body work first. That would cost a lot more than I can afford right now. So my decision was to leave the body the way it is and just make it into a rat rod for right now. I graduate December 2011, and will probably be pulling to body back off shortly after to do it right. I know it's a little extra work, but it is cheaper this way (and also makes it possible that I just might be able to drive it towards the end of this summer if everything goes right).

I got the bed almost completely done tonight. I'll probably put it off for a couple days so that I can take the front springs out to cut them down a little. You can see in the picture that they are way too tall.
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by tiger_698
1267??? You can see in the picture that they are way too tall.
OK, maybe around 900. If, …….and just an if, ………you where to paint just the firewall now, then you would not have to take the cab off again when you do the rest of the body work?

As recommended to you in your other post DO NOT cut your springs at least until you have all the parts back on (a surprising weight) and have driven it for a while.

How do I know? My two projects ago! 37 # 5 (600 x 408).jpg
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 06:24 PM
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So, did you end up driving it around towards the end of the summer?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Old F1
Nice work..... but...........Holy double digit poop, stop ………….have I got bad news for you, …………you have to either take the cab back off or take the engine out to weld the 1267 holes if the firewall, body filler, sand until blue, and paint! Yikes!
I'll bet we could find a wire to run out everyone of those holes! LOL
 
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