Just cap it off with a small rubber cap and a hose clamp and be done with it.

I'm with Ross, I doubt there is any difference internally between the 2 line pump and the 3 line pump.

Bobby

 

I hate to disagree but there is a difference between a 2 and a 3 line pump. A 2 line pump is designed to reach a pre set pressure and quit pumping, a 3 line pump has a specified bypass and pumps all the time .
The correct 2 line pump is a Airtex Master#6588 $22.99 at Autozone. Iv'e used 3 line pumps and plugged the return line and sometimes it works OK and sometimes not IE Flooding , vapor lock , short pump life , and worst of all internal leakage [ fuel in oil]. I put this information out there , but for 23 bucks I wouldn't take a chance .

Have A Good Day-------Hotwrench

 

Hotwrench,

Cool info. its cool to learn something new.

Thanks
Bobby

 

Hotwrench, you have me convinced. It does seem like a better idea to just not take the chance. The one question I do have, if it's designed to stop at a certain pressure, am I going to lose power because the engine isn't getting enough fuel at times?

 

Humph! Another dissident!

Tee hee - yep do it right for $22.99!

J!

 

The factory style pump will support a very healthy engine. If you are drag racing you might consider a electric pump at the tank, but in most cases the origional style pump will suffice. Unless your running big horsepower the stock pump will be OK
Have A Good Day--------Hotwrench

 

I went and got the new fuel pump today. That problem is solved. But.....the problem of me and my dad disagreeing will probably never be solved.

I looked through a few threads, and kind of found mixed answers. I say that I should put the fuel filter on the frame (probably close to the tank on the rear of the truck). My reasoning is that when it needs changed, you're not fighting with everything else that is already cluttered in the engine compartment. Plus it filters everything before it goes into the fuel pump.

My dad says I should run the line from the tank to the fuel pump, from the fuel pump to the filter (mounted on the firewall), and from the filter to the carb. He says that I have a new fuel tank and lines, so there shouldn't be any contaminants in the system. He says that anything that gets in the line will go through the pump and to the filter to be cleaned. He says it's better this way because if you're having problems with the fuel, everything you need to trouble shoot is right there in one spot. I looked at him and said, "You're saying that like the back of the truck is 2 miles away."

So, I'm sure either way will work, but is one way better than the other?

 

If you are talking about a typical OEM or aftermarket filter, I'm with your dad. Lots of people put these in front of a pump, but they have a significant pressure drop, not something you want on the inlet of a pump. If you got a screen-type filter, that would be OK on the suction side, they have very little pressure drop.

More to the point, how would you change the filter if there was a straight run of pipe from the tank to the filter? There aren't any valves in your line, are there?

 

Well there isn't even a line yet. That makes more sense to me now. I wasn't thinking about there being fuel in the tank when I would be changing the filter. Haha, I don't think things through all the time. I just question him because he hasn't ever done a ground up restoration. He knows a lot about cars, but not from scratch.

Kinda off the topic, but still has to do with lines...if I am running an aluminum from the frame to the engine, there shouldn't be enough movement between the two to worry about should there? Or do I need to run aluminum from the tank to the spot on the from where I want it to move upward from, and then run a different kind from there? The reason I was thinking about this is because I will be running brake lines on Thursday, and the ones I got were steel. When I go from the frame to the brake cylinders on the axle, there will be a lot of movement....and I'm sure that's not good on the steel lines. How do you solve this, and is that a problem with the fuel line?

 

You're missing some important words there; you aren't using aluminum for fuel line, are you? Steel is the way to go.

And I sincerely hope you aren't figuring to run steel brake lines from the frame to the wheel cylinders, without a rubber hose???

 

I haven't gotten the fuel line yet. I am still trying to figure out the best thing to get. So definitely not getting aluminum. Jegs has steel ones (or at least I believe they are...it says "Heavy duty original equipment type double wall copperized steel tubing which is coated in galvanized zinc for superior rust protection"). Do I need a different type than that from the frame to the fuel pump though?

As for the brake, I know I shouldn't run the steel line to the cylinders. I just wasn't sure exactly what to use. I guess I have the answer for that now though.

 

Derek,

Any hard line, brake, fuel, AC, etc will have to have a rubber component in it somewhere or the vibration will tear it apart.

In the brake system you typically have a rubber line at both the front wheels connecter the wheel cylinder or caliper to the hard line at the frame. In the rear you will have a rubber line connecting the hard line at the frame to a "T" on the differential. You might also notice several coils of hard brake line near the master cylinders on cars. This is to allow for the slight movement between the cab and the chassis.

The fuel sytem will typically have a rubber line from the tank sending unit to the hard line at the frame. There will be another rubber piece from the hard line to the fuel pump. There can be a complete hard line between the fuel pump to the filter and on to the carb (unless the filter is mounted to the firewall instead of the engine - then it will need to be isolated with a rubber line as well)

Same story for AC lines or any other lines. If there is going to be some movement between component then you will need some way to accomodate it.

Keep arguing with the old man, its good for him...and you. Just don't let the "disagreements" turn into somethig big and ugly. Remember, this is supposed to be fun.

Bobby

 

Here is a picture of the brake line arrangement Ross and Bobby are talking about. Note the flexible rubber line running from the frame to wheel. Another point that wasn't brought up - probably because it becomes fairly obvious - is that if you use a rigid line all the way to the brake cylinder, you're gonna have quite a bit of problems snapping brake lines every time you TURN the wheels - but you knew that.



On the fuel filter thing, I would have to say that it is better to have the filter between the pump and carb. The fuel pump likes to "push", it doesn't like to "pull." Also the maintenance advantages are obvious as the guys also stated.

But, just as food for thought, I actually have filters on BOTH sides of the pump (my fuel pump will handle the added resistance). Remember that you want your fuel filter to not just take out rust and particulate matter, but hopefully water as well.

I installed the glass bowl type filter just north of my fuel pump, but installed a disposable, large (1 1/2" diameter) barrel type filter, on it's side, making it the lowest point of my fuel line to trap and hold any water in the system. That way, it's not flowing back to the tank, and any rust-o-garbage that forms with water, does it in the disposable bottom of that filter instead of my fuel lines, tank, or carb bowl. When I need to change that, I usually wait until I've run out of gas (which typically female I do about once a month) then change it when the front of the truck is jacked up for lubing.

Here is a picture of the front of my engine. The silver thingy is the Carter x-type fuel pump, and the filter is just above it. The lines connecting the two are not installed. I used a rubber line here - just because of the short length.



Just as a side note, in that picture you can also see the remote Frantz Oil filter and oil cooler installed in front of the radiator - congestion with the standard oil filter and the truck frame/exhaust (also not installed yet in the pic) was a problem.

Julie

PS. Enjoy this time with your Dad - he won't be there forever (and who knows when he might be gone - maybe tomorrow!). And don't be afraid to stand your ground with him....respectfully of course - then he will respect you too. He'll never let you know that, but he will.

 

I know I need to enjoy time with him. I just always want to double check what he's saying. Sometimes what makes sense to me in my head isn't what is always true, as is the case with where to put the filter. I knew that there needed to be some kind of line besides steel to go between stationary and moving parts, just wasn't sure of what it would be. I am pretty sure the mustang II kit i bought comes with steel braided lines for the front, but I have to fab my own thing for the back. I'll figure something out now.... but with rubber lines.

Again, thanks for the help everyone.

 

The steel braided lines are great. Id use them , especially if thats what came in the kit. For the rear you can get just about anything you need. I think the one I ended up using is from a Jeep (my brother-in-law is big into rock crawling and always has some great left over parts that I can snag for free). he replaced it because it was to short after installing his lift kit.

Its good to question the ol' man, just keep in mind that he's been around a long time and has lots of experience and....dang it....(this is the tough part)...he's right most of the time...(shhhh, don't tell my ol' man I said that)

Bobby