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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Wiring help.

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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 10:02 AM
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Wiring help.

I'm doing a complete rewiring job on a 50 model flathead 226. I need to know where to run the wires from the key switch and the push button. I'm doing a 12 volt conversion. I push the starter button and the motor barley turns over. Something is not right. Does anyone have a good diagram to look at. A GOOD complete diagram. Thanks Scott
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 10:17 AM
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49fordpickumup
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stsrter

button should go to a heavy relay that connects the battery to the starter thru the contacts of that relay(again heavy wires battery to starter). Checkgrounds, battery to frame, block,etc. Many, many problems can be traced to bad gtounds.chuck
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 10:29 AM
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find julie { juliescool f1 ? } she has a very good wiring diagram made up and if your nice she'll send it to ya !!!!!!
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 11:35 AM
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Thanks for the help. I'll see if I can get her to help. Thanks again.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 11:43 AM
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Tried to send her a message and it said it could not find her. I'll try to look at the members list. If anyone eles has a diagram then I would like to see it. Haven't done this in a while and I know I have something not right. So thanks for the help.
Scott
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 01:43 PM
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Here is what I have for diagrams:










I'll throw in the diagram for the aftermarket turn signals:

 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 03:06 PM
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Thank you very much. This will help me out. Scott
 
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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From: Poway, Ca.
Hi Scott,

I was just back looking on the posts I missed last week. I sent the diagrams and they should help with your wiring. They reflect how mine is wired and it works perfectly. If you need help you have my e-mail as well.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned (and there are soooooo many little electrical tidbits like this) BUT, there are two kinds of starter buttons: One (which is the original style) recieves power in and then flows out to ground. This completes a circuit which activates you starter solenoid as a relay.

The other type is a true continuety type button - where power flows in and your pushing the button completes a contact and allows power to flow out. There is no grounding involved with this type of switch (the power flows back to the solenoid and then to ground through the starter). Difference is for positive and negative ground flow direction.

It is very possible that you have the older style and you are double grounding (in other words, some of your power is bleeding out of the switch to ground)

The other possibility (as I think I may have mentioned in your other post) is that if you are using the 6 volt starter with a 12 volt system, it's going to require twice the cranking amps it did with the 6 volt power. That also means (as I mentioned) that you definately need BIG battery cables - the 12 volt ones won't carry enough current - after cranking touch the positive one very briefly - HOT? Trust me slow cranking of 6V starters is a common complaint on 12V systems - with a few exceptions.

With the drawing I sent, use one of the newer contact type starter buttons (available anywhere, I got mine on e-bay), wire it as shown in the drawing, and try again. Feel those cables and if they are hot, you might want to very seriously consider bigger cables, a 12 volt starter and solenoid!

Shoot, maybe you already have the problem solved!!!!! --- Hope so!

J!

PS I had to chuckle at you rpost about trying to send me a message and the site said I couldn't be found - tee hee that's funny!!!

"Oh NO, I'm lost again!!!!!!! I hate it when that happens!"
 
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