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I have a 87 302 f150 with a aod. I'm making it into a street strip and show truck. I'm going for the all out race car look. But I'm wanting a full push button start. I'd like to completely eliminate the key. I know how to wire some but have no real good idea on how to do this. I'd like a push button start, with a ignition switch that has to be on to run. And a kill switch. How can I wire it to completely eliminate the key? I know the key unlocks the steering but can it be bypassed and put in a switch? And how to wire a master battery disconnect as well. A list of parts needed and diagrams would be helpful. I've wired electric gauges and assorries up but never a start switch. But I appricate any help.
I did this to an 87 but it was a 351w truck and last year they were carbs.
I had a switch to flip to power everything, then a button that cranked the starter, everything hidden. The column were metal then, I removed the key cylinder, shaved it, filled, smooth and painted, looked OE.
I can't remember which wire's, it was done along time ago. Grab a manual, it'll have the schematics.
I just want to know which color wires that need to be cut and spliced and where to put them on the switches. And how to completely eliminate the key all together. And how to eliminate the wheel locking. So that all I have to do is get in, flip toggle, push button and truck starts. And then when I'm done flip toggle back and truck turns off.
Here ya go print it out, take it out to the truck with ya.
I didn't have one handy for a 87 but I did have this one ready to go, according to my book 87/89 and the 90/91 models use the same color coding for ignition switch.
I just want to know which color wires that need to be cut and spliced and where to put them on the switches. And how to completely eliminate the key all together. And how to eliminate the wheel locking. So that all I have to do is get in, flip toggle, push button and truck starts. And then when I'm done flip toggle back and truck turns off.
Removing the key cylinder aka part you put the key in, will unlock the steering wheel, at least that's all I remember doing.
That ^^ is one way. The other way if you actually want to REMOVE the wheel lock mechanism is to take the column apart on your bench. It's pretty obvious where and what the mechanism actually is when you get in there and see how everything works. Just take the locking mechanism parts out and reassemble the rest. I did this on my truck and it was so easy I don't even remember what they looked like or how the mechanism worked.
i now know how to run the push button for the starter but still need some direction for the toggle switch to give it "power" and if I take the key cylinder out it the steering wheel won't lock?
To remove the key cylinder it has to be in the RUN position, which unlocks the steering. If you switch it to RUN and then remove it, everything inside the column will forever be in the unlocked/RUN position.
To wire EVERYTHING to a switch, you just need to reference the ignition switch schematic above and tie everything wired to ACCY and RUN together, then run it to the switched side of a contactor or heavy-duty relay. The take both yellow battery circuits that you see on the right side of the ignition switch and use them to feed power to your new relay.
When I did this to one of my past vehicles, I ran two switches. Both were fed from the battery feed circuits but one switched just the RUN circuits and the other just the ACCY circuits. That way if you want to sit and listen to the radio or run the wipers while parked, you don't have to power everything on the RUN circuits as well since doing so will just run down your battery faster.
To remove the key cylinder it has to be in the RUN position, which unlocks the steering. If you switch it to RUN and then remove it, everything inside the column will forever be in the unlocked/RUN position.
To wire EVERYTHING to a switch, you just need to reference the ignition switch schematic above and tie everything wired to ACCY and RUN together, then run it to the switched side of a contactor or heavy-duty relay. The take both yellow battery circuits that you see on the right side of the ignition switch and use them to feed power to your new relay.
When I did this to one of my past vehicles, I ran two switches. Both were fed from the battery feed circuits but one switched just the RUN circuits and the other just the ACCY circuits. That way if you want to sit and listen to the radio or run the wipers while parked, you don't have to power everything on the RUN circuits as well since doing so will just run down your battery faster.
That clears up a lot. Thanks. I like the acc switch and run switch idea. I'm not very good at wiring so I don't completely understand that diagram. I'm a body guy so I'm not great with wiring.
Im not tryi g to sound insulting but with the questions you are asking it doesnt soundike you caan pull this off and have a reliable setup. Why are you doing this? Do you think you will be able to diagnose problems when you ha e a bad switch or connection?
Well I can. I just haven't done a lot of ignition wiring. Now all I want to know is what color wires under the dash do I need to cut and splice to the push button. Forget bout the rest. Just have the button for the starter and use the key for the power and to unlock the steering the wheel
Everything you're wanting to know is right there in plain sight on the schematic, bud. As shown, the starter control circuit is labeled Red-Lt Blu which means it's a red wire with a light blue tracer (stripe) running along it's length. The schematic also shows which contacts close in each position of the switch so if you only wanted to power the starter circuit then you would pick up power at the yellow battery feed and supply it to the red/light blue starter control circuit.
Now that being said I will tell you from experience the yellow battery feed circuits will be a heavier gauge wire and although it has overcurrent protection upstream of the switch (the brown fuse link) you would be wise to install an additional fuse to the wire feeding your push button because, should something happen then the button, your wiring or the factory wiring will probably melt before you blow the upstream battery feed fuselink. That and the amperage of the fuse link is unknown. You can look it up which is why the color is given. Each color corresponds to an amp rating.
Also don't be using those stupid blue T-tap connectors to splice in.
Ok. Here is my plan then. Splice Into one of the heavy yellow wires, then run a similar size wire with a fuse in it to one side of my button, then from the other side of the button run a wire to the red with blue stripe. Would this work?