I've figured out where my wait to start light is supposed to be, but not why it doesn't light up. When I turn the key to run I get a clicking for about 5 seconds and the voltmeter needle flickers in sync with the clicks.
I went through the fuses and found one labeled electric engine controller that was bad and replaced it. no difference. I've ordered manuals, but right now I'm working on intuition and since I know nothing about diesel that's not good. I've figured out that box with the hard lines is my injection pump(IP?), but I don't know where the glow plugs(gp) are in relation to the injectors. I thought that the injector went through the gp?
What does common rail mean? and what is the best way to bleed the fuel lines?
can I use the same battery charger I use on my gasser, I'm worried about running the batteries down trying to start it every time I think I've solved the problem(whatever that is) Thanks for help and patience

 

If you do a search here for "glowplug controller" you should come up with a wiring diagram. There are two different types depending on the year of your truck. Check your wiring to make sure it is good.
You may have bad glowplugs. Check to see what make they are, if not Motorcraft/Beru then replace them all. This could cause your light problem.
The injector pump is at the front of the engine down between the "V" with, as you say, the hard lines coming from it to the injectors at each cylinder. You will see the glowplugs beside the injectors, looking like small spark plugs with electrical connectors on them.
Common rail is a term used to describe a type of diesel injection controlled by computer.
To bleed the lines look on the diesel filter head and you should see a fitting like a tyre valve. Push the inside valve in while cranking until fuel with no air comes out. Release valve. Next crack open one or two of the hard line nuts at the injectors and again crank until a little fuel comes out. This should bleed the system. Do not crank each time for more than about 20sec at a time, allowing starter to cool between cranks.
Make sure the batteries are good and fully charged (any charger) as you will never get a diesel to start with poor batteries. Hope this helps.

 

What year truck?

Two different systems, three different locations.

83 thru 86 old style
87 thru 94 new style
NA or turbo changes the new style location of the controller.

 

As far as the battery charger goes.... You can use the same one as for your gasser. With two batteries though, it will take a bit longer to charge them.

 

In his profile he has listed a 92 f250 .

The controller will be located behind the air cleaner under a black plastic cover. BE CAREFUL as one of the connections is straight to the batteries. It does sound like the controller is bad or not getting a ground.

Yes you can use any charger but the small ones (under 30 amps) will take a lot longer to charge both batteries.

CAUTION - - DO NOT USE STARTER FOR MORE THAN 20 SECONDS - - - -then wait 2 minutes before trying again
as excessive cranking could burn out the EXPENSIVE starter

 

Sorry, Dave, I have a 92 F250 NA7.3 4x supercab with ^300k.
If I hook up a charger to one, will it charge both at same time?
I have ordered manuals off E-bay, so my questions should start sounding a little more like I know my way around a wrench. I actually haven't done much for about 20 yrs and then I rebuilt 1965 Corvairs (5), and you can't get much further from a diesel than an aircooled flat 6 you can start with a rope!

 

Check the glow plugs. It sounds like You have a couple of bum plugs.

Type 'Glow Plugs' in the search box.

 

Because both batteries are tied together in parallel you just hook the charger to one and the other will charge. Also along those lines. If you need to replace one battery. You really should do both as the older battery will drain the new one down.

 

Also, any charging/jumping should be done on the pass side battery.

 

Ok, I took somebody's advice and cleaned up some corrosion on the drivers side battery and the beast actually fired up...and died immediately. Since I did the cleaning when I turn the key, I don't get any clicking anymore, just a hum for about 5 secs. I'm not getting any smoke when I try to start it and I checked the filter and got fuel and the schrader valve because Dave S. said I'm "Looking for about 5 PSI for pressure and at least 1/3 pint in 10 seconds cranking." I was alone and wasn't cranking so I got nuttin', is there a different way to do this that I can do by myself?
Thanks for helping out, you guys are geniuses, I'm enjoying my apprenticeship.
P.s. what the heck is that thing that looks like a can of V-8 just behind the passenger side battery?
this thing called work keeps me from doing what I really want!

 

You can do this yourself.

The starter relay on the inside of the fender can be used for cranking the engine.

First unplug the front wire on the drivers side of the IP, that one goes to the fuel shut off solenoid and will eliminate the possibility of the engine starting.
Next block the wheels and put the transmission in neutral or park.

Now jump from the battery supply terminal to the small terminal on the relay with the blue/red wire on it.
The engine should crank.

One of those remote starter switches would make it easier, but you can get by without one.

Actually I think you are looking at the vacuum reservoir.
The other possibility is the low vacuum warning switch.

Does it have a hose connected to it or a hose and three wires?

 

[/quote]Actually I think you are looking at the vacuum reservoir.
The other possibility is the low vacuum warning switch.

Does it have a hose connected to it or a hose and three wires?[/quote]

looks like 1 hose that splits about 1" away from the v8 can.

what is the easiest way to pull the dashboard to check bulbs and connections? I can't figure out how to get it past the shift lever
this thing called work keeps me from what I really want to do

 

A 92 is to new for me to help you with.

Although it is hard, I can actually change the bulbs from the back on my 86.

 

Pull the headlight **** off first, set the parking brake and put the shifter in neutral, pull out gently on the bezel all the way around, unplug the connector behind your wait to start light, remove bezel completely. The gauge panel is held in with about six hex headed screws, after you get them out pull the gauge panel forward and unplug the harness from the back if necessary, from there you can get to all the bulb sockets on the back. Hope that helps.