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Bypass the remote not working while engine running "feature"

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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 02:17 AM
  #16  
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ReAX
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From: Central Florida
If you wanted to retain the KARR system, check into the wiring of the 4040a for an auxiliary output. Aux outputs are usually triggered by a combination of buttons on the key fob. Say like pressing lock and unlock at the same time, then the brain provides a neg pulse on a wire in the harness. (just a for instance). Then use this wire to tell the RS to start the engine.

Some of these RS stand alones can use a double pulse. In which case, you would tap the unlock button twice to activate the remote start. I think this is kind of cheap compared to using a RS/Alarm Combo or using an Auxiliary output from another alarm.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 03:32 AM
  #17  
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_Rick_
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From: White Rock BC Canaduh
Originally Posted by ReAX
If you wanted to retain the KARR system, check into the wiring of the 4040a for an auxiliary output. Aux outputs are usually triggered by a combination of buttons on the key fob. Say like pressing lock and unlock at the same time, then the brain provides a neg pulse on a wire in the harness. (just a for instance). Then use this wire to tell the RS to start the engine.

Some of these RS stand alones can use a double pulse. In which case, you would tap the unlock button twice to activate the remote start. I think this is kind of cheap compared to using a RS/Alarm Combo or using an Auxiliary output from another alarm.
__________________________________________________ _________

I may be in luck with the AUX OUT. I found some wiring info (below).IN BOLD (12 & 14)
From past experience when I first started using the KARR 4040a system just finding a users manual proved to be very difficult. I'm surprised I found the wiring info as quick as I did tonight.

But I think I may consider looking deeper into a complete newer Alarm and RS package from Computar and DEI if someone or rep of these companies can offer me any reasonable situation that would out perform what I have now.

Karr 4040A wiring

1. Red = 12V Constant alarm power
2. White = Parking lights output
3. Red\White Stirpe = Parking light selector. Cut this wire and connect it to a ground if using a (-) parking light, keep it connected for a (+) parking light
4. White\Black Stripe = Siren Output (+)
5. Purple = (+) Door Trigger
6. Yellow = Ignition
7. Green/White = Domelight
8. Black\White Stripe = Horn output (-)
9. Black = Ground
10.Orange = Ground when armed
11. Brown = Door Trigger (-)
12. Light Green = Accessory input (-) trigger
13. Dark Green = (-) trunk trigger
14. Dark Green\Black Stripe = Accessory (-) output trigger - Must use relays.
There is also a four wire lead ( red,green,red,blue ) that plugs into the side of the unit that I have no idea what it is for?
Red = (-) lock motor
Green = (-) unlock motor
Red/Black = 2nd unlock
Blue = Trunk shunt
2pin:
red = (-) power lock
green = (-) power unlock


Rick...
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 05:32 AM
  #18  
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ReAX
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From: Central Florida
Input=intrusion on alarms. Your better off using the (-) trigger on 14 with a relay.
 
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