I got a sonnax shift kit for christmas and just installed it. I let it sit till the tranny temp was around 100 and then went out. Normal drivingis great-shifts are quick and firm. At 3\4 throttle it is still great and would take the truck off the line before the kit. WOP first is good but twice it seemed as though 2nd and TC lockup where happening at the same time, which makes the rear hop and readjusts my spine. as soon as this happens the rpms shot back up as though the Tc couldn't hold, then the 3-4 with tc flair like normal.
This doesn't happen all the time. The first 2 or 3 wot runs where great but then this happens every now and then. After the second time I brought it in afraid that I would break something. Should I turn down the 2-3 shift? I removed the Banks t-commander-Should I remove the Chip as well?

Thanks

 

i'm not familiar with the sonnax kit. what all did you replace? was it just springs in the accumulator body? it sounds like a piston is sticking in the accumulator, might want to drop it out and inspect. madvan should be along, see what he thinks as well...

 

No-no springs just the valves which can be shimmed by placing a small washer between the valve and the spring. And then a new line pressure modulator valve and sleeve.
I made sure that the valves opened and closed smoothly after I assembled it. And wouldit just stick sometimes? wouldn't it be more inclined to sitck as 1\2 throttle as oppossed to WOT?

 

I would pull it back apart and try to bring the shifts back down a little. How many washers did you start out with? I think they give 4 for each right? I think I put in 2 to start with when I did my ESE kit. I liked it the way it was so I left it for now.

 

check the pasage for burrs as well, it can stick intermittantly

 

Crap! Does anyone know of a goodway to put a drain plug in the pan? Just weld a bung and geta plug with copper washer? AND I JUST CLEANED THE GARAGE FLOOR!!
TJ-- I started out with two washers per valve.
I will pull it tommorrow and check for burs, sticking and should I remove 1 washer or both of them.
After driving it somemore I'm going to add another washer to the 3-4 shift to quicken it up. Will this change any of the flair shift from the TC?

Also is it worth dropping the tranny to change the boost valve assembly,rear case bushing, overdrive piston, Front lube\drainback valve and the endplay shims?

 

Get a #2 pencil. The valve will wedge on the eraser. It will work as a tool for testing the bore in the vb. You can also use sonnax #36948-12 bore size tool.
They are hard to find now that they no longer make the tool. Just be shure the valve is free in the bore.
Do not add more shims. It will elevate the flair more. The tc cannot lock as fast as the 3 to 4 as it is. What valve is in the 3 to 4 now? (groved or no groved).
I would remove the 2 shims from the 3 to 4 and test run.
Be shure your trans temp is up to opt temp. If not your tune will be off.
The TFT effects the EPC. Colder the temp lower the pressure. Also test
in different tunes with your tuner. It also will effect the tune.

Its all in how far you want or have to go.
The boost is a wearable part. Case bushing is for lube reasons. Drain valve is plastic and can melt an cause a lack of lube issue.

The early (wot thing 2nd gear) tc lockup is in the programming (pcm and chip). Came this way OEM also. Its just another 1 of fords mistakes in my opinion. Nothing worse than pulling a heavy load and getting into the throttle and getting reduced gearing thus lugging down of the motor. Its like having a handshaker and shifting from 1 to 3 with a load. Just a stupid idea.

Joe
The sonnax way i feel is better than the transgo way.
The valves are cut in a way to induce a leak to the clutch packs.
This allows full time lube and cooling of the packs.

Bill

 

Most parts stores will sell a drain plug kit. I have used them and they work well. Drill a hole and they have a hollow "bolt" that goes though with a nut on the outside then a plug you remove to drain. For this drain time you could use a good sharp punch or scribe and poke a hole in the pan where you want to drill the hole for the drain. Let it drain into your clean bucket then before you put the pan back in install your drain kit.
here is an example of the drain kit
Transmission Pan Drain Plug

Bill covered the rest of the stuff but I will add that your shift flair at the 3-4 shift is exactly what The Cure fixes. Nothing else to my knowledge can fix it.

 

Thanks Guys I removed the shims from the 2-3 shift and that took care of the sudden jerk. Put the plug in (thanks TJ). 1-2 shift is good on the throttle but if I am not on it, say in a parking lot doing 10 MPH and the tranny goes to shift to 2nd, it is rather harsh. I like the shift feel under throttle, still have to see when pulling a load though. Will it hurt/wear anything? I left the 3-4 shift alone, Looks like I will have to add the "cure" to my list of wants.

Thanks Again