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I have a '97 3.0 shorty. 100k
I want to change the diff. oil.
What's the procedure and what weight, brand oil do I use?
I changed the tranny fluid at 80k. Gentle flush.
Thanks, Beaned
I use 85W90 for rear axes. Usually I drive around subdivision to get oil hot. Then I drain all. I fill with about a quart (there is fill hole that does not let you to uverfill).
I advice you to change cover gasket.
Oil change interval is about 200K ore more... I dont remember. I use to do it evry 2-3 years....
You'll need to remove the back cover to drain the fluid. Reseal it and refill it thru the plug in front. Not necessarily in that order.
Tip I learned the hard way: Don't drain it until after you get the plug off. Mine was frozen on there so I was stuck without my van until I could get it out and refill it! I had to use a torch to heat the area around it. What a PITA!
You'll need to remove the back cover to drain the fluid. Reseal it and refill it thru the plug in front. Not necessarily in that order.
Tip I learned the hard way: Don't drain it until after you get the plug off. Mine was frozen on there so I was stuck without my van until I could get it out and refill it! I had to use a torch to heat the area around it. What a PITA!
ouh yeah, I had to use "fire wrench", carefully of course to avoid any damage.
my friend did rear eng oil change in his '94 aero and got wrench broken in plug. plug was rounded and newer been pulled out. He had to weld in cover nut for plug to fill.
I believe with the 2WD you need to add a friction modifier in the diff (4OZ) . The change frequency is listed at 100,000 miles on the 3L vehicle. After 50K it still looks new on mine.
You only need the friction modifier if you have the limited slip differential with the clutch plates. I think Mobil 1 gear lube may already have that stuff; it certainly smells like it does.
If you do have LSD, this is a good time to rebuild the clutch pack. Ford has a complete kit that contains new clutch and steel plates, a cross bolt for hte pinion shaft, and a bottle of the friction modifier. I don't have the part number with me, but it's very convenient, and saves some cost as well.
You can use RP too. Don't use non-synthetic fluids, the synthetics work better and last longer. They are worth the extra money. It also gives you a buffer in case you forget to change it out next time. Mobil1, Royal Purple, Amsoil, and Redline are all good choices. Stay away from the synthetic wanabees like Valvoline or Quaker State.
I'm putting all synthetics in my Ford Escort wagon project: transaxle, engine (once it's broken in), and power steering fluids in hopes of maximizing my mileage. I installed a header and free flowing exhaust as well as a 50% underdrive pulley that is 3 pounds lighter than the original. I may need an overdrive pulley on the alternator, time will tell.
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