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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 10:00 AM
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Oil Pan Q's

Ref: 2000 f250 PSD.

I searched this forum and found a couple answers for replacing the engine oil pan. Pulling the engine seems to be the preferred way...I really need your opinions. Has anyone found an easier (faster) way of doing this? ie. Will the oil pan come out if the trans is removed?

I read about cutting the x-member. Something I am capable of doing but it seems the frame will be weaker?? Has anyone had a welded x-member long enough to see if the welds are cracking or the frame rails flexing to much... ect?

Thanks in advance
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 10:09 AM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...6k-wrning.html
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply indebt, that's the one I found. It's hasn't been very long since he did the cut and weld. I was hoping to hear from someone that has a couple years or a lot of miles on it.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 10:55 AM
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Here's some more reading on cutting the cross member.

LINK1

LINK2

LINK3
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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Thanks PaysonPSD, He's got about 5 years on it...That's what I was looking for. I'm cuttin' and weldin' this puppy! . I'll try to get some picts although Fordbronco69 did a pretty good job with that already.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
Thanks PaysonPSD, He's got about 5 years on it...That's what I was looking for. I'm cuttin' and weldin' this puppy! . I'll try to get some picts although Fordbronco69 did a pretty good job with that already.
Not a problem.

I don't know what I would do in this situation. Hopefully I won't have to make the decision, don't get a lot of rust in Arizona.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 02:39 PM
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Just wanted to says thanks again to all for the help. I would recommend this repair vs removing the engine. Not a bad job overall. I have more pictures for anyone that needs the moral support.

It's still a little concerning to chop a major cross-member but I feel it should be good for the long haul. FYI: The cross-member that remained in the truck didn't move/sag at all after the cutting was done. It took about 8-9 hours to complete, start to finish.

Sad part of this job is the owner brought it to me with the oil pan already loose. DIY gone bad LOL! As it turns out he didn't need a new pan, just sealant on the dip stick tube fitting in the pan..... Could have been fixed in less than an hour instead of all this work and aggravation.

This was the culprit for the original leak. The inside was warped right from the factory...bad casting? It could have been sealed from the out side.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 03:54 PM
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What kind of shape was the o-ring in. The one between the side of the pan and the dipstick tube flange.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 05:21 PM
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Somthing I didnt take pictures on, mine looked the same way....oring was good but still like the idea of it being that warped. So i put a good bead of the ford grey stuff on the outside piece on the threads. She should be good to go.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 06:27 PM
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We love pictures here. Remember the next guy that comes along with the same question will likely run across this thread. Might be useful to post up some pictures so they have the info here.

Thanks for reporting back on this.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 06:31 PM
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Payson, The o-ring was intact but very swollen. It wouldn't fit back into its groove but very glad i spotted it since there was no rust through on the pan. From the looks of the bottom of the truck it has been misting oil since day-one....I replaced a perfectly good pan. Need one? PM me, it's yours for the shipping.

Fordbronco, You had one too? It sounds like there may have been a bad batch of them things. I can't believe it was designed that way. It really doesn't stand a chance of staying sealed with the mating surface that warped (.06 - .08" gap) at the top. The o-ring was swollen and protruding out of that gap you see in the picture. I didn't replace the fitting...it has a a new o-ring and Ford TA31 slopped on both sides. Good to go!

BTW: Thanks for your Trek into the unknown. Not sure I would have wanted to be the first to do it. I was really glad to see no sagging after the cross-member was cut out.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
We love pictures here. Remember the next guy that comes along with the same question will likely run across this thread. Might be useful to post up some pictures so they have the info here.

Thanks for reporting back on this.
Any pictures I post will be about the same as Fordbroncos excellent post
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...6k-wrning.html
Besides, I didn't have a cigar to chew on for this job.

Ok, Here's one action shot and one of my welding job....

I agree, posting the results is always the way to go. One of my pet peeves here on FTE. Hope it helps someone in the future.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
I was really glad to see no sagging after the cross-member was cut out.
I took measurements before and after the cut...she didnt move a hair...but then again I ant no handyman with the measurin stick


Does anyone know the part # for the dipstick tube holder thingy? Might be useful to the next person that wants to tackle the job!
 
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
Thanks PaysonPSD, He's got about 5 years on it...That's what I was looking for. I'm cuttin' and weldin' this puppy! . I'll try to get some picts although Fordbronco69 did a pretty good job with that already.
Jim ,, I wouldn't hesitate to do it ....
 
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
Payson, The o-ring was intact but very swollen. It wouldn't fit back into its groove but very glad i spotted it since there was no rust through on the pan. From the looks of the bottom of the truck it has been misting oil since day-one....I replaced a perfectly good pan. Need one? PM me, it's yours for the shipping.
Jim,

Thanks for the response and the offer. My pan is in great shape. Not much rust in Arizona.
 
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