Does any body know if i can get oil pan off with out pullen the motor i need to replace the #7 piston that i put a hole in. thanks can you put pictures up on here thanks

 

From what I have read the motor has to come out.

Yes, you can post some pics. You can put them in your gallery and link to them or you can use offsite photo storage like Photobucket and link to them. I use Photobucket.

 

Only other way is cut the cross-member then re-weld it when your done. I never liked that option. Seems to me cutting and re-welding a structural piece isn't a great idea if it can be done another way. Someone with more engineering knowledge than me nay be able to chime in.

 

I was talking to a mechanic that claims to have done a few of them by dropping the trans, some cross member(s) (not sure which ones) and easing it out from underneath the truck. But, I read on this forum that the only way to ensure a proper seal in the pan is to have the motor upside down. I can't speak from experience but just offering my $.02

 

What the hell, who would cut the cross member out? the engine is bolted to it, you'd have the axle and all the crap in the way. Plus it takes only 10 or 12 hours to remove the engine.

 

haha, 'only'. this is comming from Mr. Disassembly. would be more desireable if you could yank it in a couple like my 79.

 

I thought I read somewhere that they epoxy the pan on (along with the bolts)?

When my engine was out, my mechanic didn't want to touch the pan unless it was leaking (it wasn't) -- he said they're a major PIA to work with -- no first-hand experience here though, so someone else chime in if he's wrong.

Just a thought -- it'd suck to cut a crossmember and then not be able to pry the pan off.

Craig

 

Dad had a pan off of a 7.3, E series. I helped a little when my college semester ended. When he went together with the new pan, he did not use all of the entire tube of the liquid gasket maker from IH. End result, a leaky oil pan, were it mounts up to the block. He called IH and they asked if he used the entire contents of the tube. Apparently you cannot use it sparingly. He had to pull it again, got it right the second time. I felt bad for him on the second pull becuase I was back in school. .

 

You only need to spread a bead about 1/4" wide and 1/8" tall, extra where the front and rear covers meet. I didnt use all of a tube sealing the 95 i just put a new oil pan on, unless you have a larger block or oil pan.

 

My pans getting a little seedy...I'm gonna scrap it gently and put some Rust Bullet on to hopefully put off the inevitable.

I did notice that the cross member that is in the way of the pan seems to be joined to the frame rails with some heavy duty rivets. I was wondering if these could be removed and regular bolts used to replace them.... class 1 fit with locktite of course.

 

I'm thinking you can unbolt from Motor mounts, loosing transmission brace and then suspend the up with a cherry picker

 

Hi all. I replaced the oil pan in my 1999 F550 (6x6 PSD with a 4r100 trans) by cutting the crossmember under the engine 4 years ago,when my oil pan rotted out and I had to replace it.
The crossmember has a big gap under the engine anyway and all I did was cut the thin sections on each side with a sawsall.The crossmsmber is not as structural as you think,as the engine sits on the side saddles just fine.There was minimal movement with the K member cut and when I welded it back in(MIG welded),I did not have to jack it back in place etc.
Took me 4 hrs. Much easier than yanking the engine.

I work the truck hard and nothing has happened since doing the oil pan job.No cracks,nothing.The crossmsmber is not that critical.

The pan is not epoxied on,but the stock adhesive is very strong and requires some prying on the pan to get it to release.I didn't care about the pan as I was replacing it anyway.

The grey sealant Ford wants you to use has a shelf life and if you get a tube that has been sitting around too long,it does not set up properly.I know this for a fact.

Just use a fresh High temp RTV that you trust and it will work fine.

I like the big block PSD so much I bought a 2001 F350 PSD for plowing and odd jobs and a 2000 F250 PSD for pulling my racecar trailer.Pans look good on both of them. I hate rot... anyway, thats my oil pan experience with the PSD. Oh,my engine crossmember looks to be the same design on the F550 as my F350 and F250.

 

I have the same problem with my oil pan, I have 2 or 3 spots that I'm worried about. I will lightly sand them and get some rust stopper and hope for the best. I must admit that this is my biggest dissapointment with my PSD so far. I think Ford should have their @@@ kicked for this, how many years making vehicles and haven't figured out rust prevention yet? Especially on this item!

Enough rant, does anyone know a good rust stopper?

 

Mine was two weeks over the date (5 yrs) warranty on the oil pan rot out and Ford would do nothing.Disappointing for sure.

Don't be surprised if you scrape the rot spots off and it starts to leak.That's what mine did.

 

I wonder if I could weld some sheet metal around the spots?