Jason27--Dont believe it was me talking about a release valve . I dont know of a release valve as such. Mark K mentioned a pressure valve and I think he was talking about the EPC (pressure control) in the solenoid pack. Interesting to hear about seal failure because of temp. That sounds logical to me, had kinda though it was more a pressure thing, beyond the EPC, because of super-heated fluid due to slipping converter clutches. Reasonable to me that high heat would cause a seal to "blow out" because the heat affected the rubber and compromised its strength. I hope its not a problem with the EPC, because I did not change it out, only the converter---been doing fine, except for too much stall speed for my purpose.

I think the basic problem is the slipping converter--
My .02

 

No, it isn't true. There is no valve like this on the trans.

The torque converter can get VERY hot. When it does the torque converter hub seal gets soft and leaks. Often it will seal again once it cools. Eventually it won't work anymore and it will always leak.

 

so mark k and benshere you guys think torque converter is the problem if so that would make sense as mark describes it does not leak once it cools down i don't plow much with this truck because of this problem but if you think its converter i may put another one in.I was think thinkin the tranny just couldn't handle plowing and thats why it starting leaking after plowing for about an hour u know the constant forward and reverse but thanks for the help that definately sounds possible as the tranny was used not rebuilty and i never changed converter i put the one in that came with the used tranny and the old tranny never overheated it just had clutches slipping!

 

The problem is not the torque converter, it's the lack of enough trans cooling. Working the trans hard at low speeds, like when plowing, creates A LOT of heat in a torque converter. That's how torque converters operate.

The trans cooler in the radiator is designed to cool the trans at low speeds like this. An aux cooler is not as effective because there isn't enough airflow at low speeds. Does yours have the cooler in the radiator? If so, you might need an aux cooler with an electric fan.

 

MK--

I had to replace the conv on my 93--same problem except I didnt need a snow plow down here From what I have read on the subject and problems, my understanding is that the earlier clutches (in the E4OD) for a number of possible reasons ie: not enough line pressure, single clutch plates, wear, etc. would excessively slip and not lock up , thereby creating lots of heat which then transfered to the fluid and eventually caused a seal failure. It happened to me towing a small U-haul on I75 coming back to FL. Supposedly the later converters (dont know ~what year or particulars) contained multiple/LUK clutches and the problem was solved/lessened.

I agree that tranny coolers may need to be added, but isnt that possibly "after the horse got out"? If the problem is excessive slippage in the conv clutches, shouldnt that be addressed first? Thats my .02, but I am not a tranny expert. I have rebuilt a few, but that dosnt make me an expert. I would like to hear your take on that issue. This is not a challenge to you, just that I would like to know more about the problem. I presently have an E4OD all apart and have new clutches/plates etc to put back together. Also have a bearing center support and a 5 pinion fwd clutch assy (5----I think). I happen to like the E4OD's and sure would like to know something about the new 6 speeds. Also wonder if any of the gearsets (low gear) will retro to the E4OD---kinda doubt it.

Might help Duffman1990 to know as well.

 

At speeds where someone is plowing snow (unless they are plowing at over 40 MPH) the torque converter is not locked so the clutches are not applied. It won't matter what lockup clutches are in there, they are turned off.

No parts from a trans newer than a 4R100 will retrofit into an E4OD.

 

Mk--Tx. I knew that , Just forgot about it--Mind fart. Mine locks up at ~40 mph regardless of where your foot is. That strategy being the case, his tranny needs more coolers, unless a cooler is almost plugged, but then no fluid flow. Snow Plows must take a lot to push. Given the "cool' ambiant, and it still overheats? . What SPF rating does snow require?

 

I hope duffman1990 wont mind, this question goes to the subject of the thread and I hope its not a thread-buster Maybe useful to the subject.

MK-- You have done it now You seem to know trannys--!

I put a replacement converter in my 93 bronco 5.8, after the same problem as duffman and others. It was rated for an E350 Ambulance, because I told the guy I towed a heavy boat occasionally. It actually has too much stall for my liking and general driving purposes. The 5.8 (kinda like the 351W ) has plenty of power for the street.

There are threads that discuss manual control of the lockup by clipping and toggle switch the control leed to the winding of the lockup solenoid. Possible soft code, but will not trigger "limp home". One poster even said that his does not trigger a code at all.

I also have a slightly different approach. I want the lockup much earlier, actually during mid-1st gear. Certainly dont want it at idle . I think agreement is that economy is best with no slippage of converter.

I'm thinking some rpm control of the solenoid, maybe a MSD rpm switch, or a mph control that triggers at ~10-15 mph. I have EVTM and 34 years of complex circuits/wiring experience----this wiring "aint" complex (my opinion).

If duffman objects, I will move this to a new thread TX

 

Locking up based on RPM would work. I recommend about 1700-2100 RPM, and NEVER let it try to be locked below 1300 RPM. There isn't enough pressure at lower RPM to keep the clutch from slipping.

And by the way, the 5.8L is the 351W. Same engine, two names.

 

Tx Mk-- Yea, I know that about the 351's just poking a little fun at our terminology. It may not be possible to get a steady apply anywhere in the bottom of first gear (talking about E4OD). May have to figure some way to have lockup just prior to 2 gear shift. Guess I really need to find out where PCM locks solenoid for 2nd, is it rpm or speed. It appears lockup is by speed not rpm. Reality is it may not be doable without extensive electronics.

TX duffman for my ramble

 

not a prob...anything that could prevent the problem if my new tranny does it in a few thousand miles is good in my book

 

Ok...after a VERY LONG wait...I finally got my truck back thinking the problem might have been fixed. Still haven't been able to take it to a tranny shop because of money. From what I understand, someone who used to work for my gma had it taken up town, then drove it about 2 miles back, city mileage, then another mile to the gas station, where the old battery died...no leaks, and I didn't see any on the parking lot from my truck when I took a new battery up there. I drove it about 15 miles out of town, and when I got to my house I pulled it into the turnaround, and started backing up the driveway. The truck seemed to "jolt" to a stop, when I put it in reverse...not thinking anything of it, because when I go to a stop sign, it dies every once in a while because of low rpm until I let the computer reset...so I put it in park, started it back up, and put it in reverse...the tranny slipped and the engine started revving, so I turned it off, and threw it back into park...between the gas station and home, the tranny did not slip at all, only when I put it into reverse the second time. All of the seals are new, rear, front outer, pump o-ring, and pump gasket...so at highway speeds, would temperature because of the torque converter be an issue? Or do I have a more serious problem?