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I have a 2000 ranger, 3.0 4x4 auto. tranny. I recently installed new valve body gaskets and separator plate. (thanx to all of your help) Now I have another problem. When I first start it up, it runs perfectly other than a little rough idle but when it warms up and I come to a stop, the oil pressure gauge flickers and the idle goes down to about 500 and sometime dies. Start it back up and it is fine until I drive it further and stop again. I have changed spark plugs and wires and changed my oil and changed the oil pressure switch sender after all of this has started. Can anyone help me figure out this problem??????
The oil pressure flickering is probably when it's idling so low. Nothing to worry about IMO. Did you disconnect the battery for a time to reset the computer? About an hour will do with the headlights on to drain the electronics.
off subject, but if your valve body rebuild works, please post a symptom and follow up in the 4r55e post so that others can see that it worked. i am so happy that i can help another user save some serious money.
by the way, is ur username ur name? i had a teacher that was names smallwood
I am pretty sure that I did post a reply on the valve body rebuild, but I will check and make sure. I will also try the battery to reset the computer, Thank you.
The headlight thing isnt necessary. Its time consuming and you'd have to charge the battery afterwords. If you disconnect the negative battery post for about 15 or so mins that'll drop all electricity out of the system long enough for the computer to forget the old sensor readings.
As far as the low rpms go, does your truck sit still or slowly creep at idle? Or does it want to lunge as soon as you let off the brake? It almost sounds like the converter is not letting go of the engine, dragging it down to those low rpms when stopped. Does neutral make it act any different?
I have this very same situation on a 2001 Ranger and have been researching it now for about a month to no avail.
Have replaced the IAC (idle air control motor), the EGR sensor that controls the EGR valve. Tested the EGR valve ( it holds vacuum). Checked the plugs and wires for a misfire and am okay there.
I have also noticed in my troubleshooting that when coming to a stop if you shift into neutral this will keep the rpm's from dropping.
The other forums I have found say to check vacuum lines for leaks. I haven't gotten that far yet.
Mine only happens when the truck comes to a stop from a high rate of speed. Low cruising speeds in town do not trigger this issue even after driving home from being on the highway for a while.
odd, I know.
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