glow plugs
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From: safford
glow plugs
i bought a 87 f250 with a 6.9 I turned on the key got no WTS light so I changed the relay and now have a wts light but its only on a couple seconds and then you can hear the relay click several times. Its kinda hard to check the glow plugs that way. I need some help
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From: Faibanks Ak.
You leave the key off to test the GP's.
Unplug the GP itself using a ohm meter check between the blade and the housing should get a reading of .5 to 1 ohm.
You can also use a test light connect lead to hot post on battery should light when you touch the spade on GP. this will tell you if it is completely open circuit.
If one or more GP;s are bad the controller will not get enough resistance to stay on long enough for the GP's to get hot.
Unplug the GP itself using a ohm meter check between the blade and the housing should get a reading of .5 to 1 ohm.
You can also use a test light connect lead to hot post on battery should light when you touch the spade on GP. this will tell you if it is completely open circuit.
If one or more GP;s are bad the controller will not get enough resistance to stay on long enough for the GP's to get hot.
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From: safford
that explains alot thanks its not the factory motor and it has the old style controller on the back of the motor that is not hooked up and is using the new style box but it still has the spade style glow plugs.
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From: safford
they used the harness just changed the ends. I bought the truck for the turbo it sat for about a year by my dads. Dad said they towed it in and thats where its sat paid 500 for it. but the bodies in better shape than my 84 and its an extended cab so i would kind of like to try and get it running.
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From: Faibanks Ak.
I dont see why that would not work I would start by checking the GP's.
It has been my experience with everyone of these that sat for an extended amount of time they always needed a return line kit also a minor repair.
Have you ever had it started and heard it run.
It has been my experience with everyone of these that sat for an extended amount of time they always needed a return line kit also a minor repair.
Have you ever had it started and heard it run.
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Someone a while back used the old ZD1A glow plugs with a solid state controller.
I seem to remember there were issues, but I can't remember what they were.
Logic says they should work, but logic don't always apply.
Also there is a ground wire on the new style controller, it must have a good ground for the controller to work.
First checks,
Do you have constant battery power at the battery terminal?
Do you have power at the ignition terminal when the key is on?
I seem to remember there were issues, but I can't remember what they were.
Logic says they should work, but logic don't always apply.
Also there is a ground wire on the new style controller, it must have a good ground for the controller to work.
First checks,
Do you have constant battery power at the battery terminal?
Do you have power at the ignition terminal when the key is on?
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From: safford
it turrns over but I couldnt get it to start. Put new fuel in it but I thinks it was a little cold it does need the return line kit. My dad heard it run after they put in the engine and trans. said it ran good but one day they towed it in and the guy said it was a electrical. Im goiong to check the GPs when i get back out there
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From: Faibanks Ak.
I would think if the resistance is the same they would work but that is just thinking.IF they test bad it shouldn't cost to much to change the ends back to the bullet style the GP cost is the same Be sure you use motorcraft beru plugs as ALL other brands have unpleasant issues.
This is how I would go about it.
GP's working properly even if you go manual.
fuel return lines in good order.
fuel pressure and volume check.
new fuel filter filled with diesel klean or other high quality additive.
make surefuel solenoid on IP has voltage with key on and you can hear click.
batteries and all connections are up to snuff.
never crank for more than 20 seconds then let starter cool down 2 minutes.
This is how I would go about it.
GP's working properly even if you go manual.
fuel return lines in good order.
fuel pressure and volume check.
new fuel filter filled with diesel klean or other high quality additive.
make surefuel solenoid on IP has voltage with key on and you can hear click.
batteries and all connections are up to snuff.
never crank for more than 20 seconds then let starter cool down 2 minutes.
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