Hello FTE, I have a 94 E150 with a 5.0 engine and E40D trans out of a 95 Mustang GT. My problem is that my trans switches all 3 normal gears fine, but drops into overdrive only sometimes (mostly when its cool) then once It warms to a good operating temp, it begins to drop out of overdrive back into 3rd (exspecially when cruising over 60MPH) eventually loosing overdrive alltogther only to return once it cools or the next day.

The next mystery is that I'm not sure if the overdrive has ever worked properly since I've owned the van, I purchased her in spring 2003 with the original drivetrain and an overdrive cancel button that has never worked and she has always gotten less that desireable gas miledge.

After the drivetrain swap I had the TPS changed twice to correct hard and sometimes missed shifts and rich exhaust fumes, this fixed my rich burning and smoothed out my gears, but Im left with the overdrive issue, this is my last puzzle piece to a complete E150 GT. HELP!

Drivetrain swap details:

The vans intake system was adapted to the mustang engine, the trans was the same except for custom linkage modification and yoke/u-joint swap.

The trans has a mild stall converter and shift pack (this was unknown until I was done and couldn't figure out why the RPM's seemed a lil high when taking off in first or gunning out in all gears)

Stock GT Headers flowing threw 2.5" duals into a single dual in/dual out Flowmaster.

K&N filter with "Tornado" inserts that alledgedly increase airflow (Crap that don't seem to work) but hey! it's too late, they're paid for.

MSD Blaster coil, Ford Racing 9mm wires, Bosch 4 Platnium plugs

Custom Electric Fan cooling

 

The E4OD was never installed in any car line. The '94 Mustang had an AODE transmission.

Can you run self test? There may be a code stored that can help diagnose what's wrong.

 

What computer are you running? Did you get the one from the mustang, or are you using the one from the van? If it's the one from the van that could be your problem. Get rid of those snake oil plugs and put motorcraft copper plugs in it. It'll run better AND get better gas mileage.

 

I use the computer from the van, I didn't think the mustang computer would be interchangable, you think it is? If so would one from any 95 GT work? Also I will be changing the plugs this weekend, Thanks

 

Did you swap in the MAF as well? I'm pretty sure that the computer here is the problem. If all else fails you need to get some wiring diagrams and make sure that all the wires are in the right places.

 

Thanks Mark K. for the correction on the trans, your right.

 

pfogle, once again, no Sir! I used every intake component that was from the van and applied them to the block out of the mustang, and all the wire and vacuum harnesses, were returned to their original locations. Should I try swaping the MAF with one from a mustang.

 

Mark K. the self test that you mentioned, is this a test on the trans alone? Is it something I can request from a trans shop, I have no knowledge on performing any code test, I'm just an old school shadetree mechanic.

 

The self test is on the PCM. It tests the engine and trans together. Your system is OBDI so you can get a $25 reader from most parts stores or even Wally World to read the codes.

 

Yeah, Mark is right, it will be an AODE, not an E4OD.

Mine is pretty much the same van, a '95, 5.0, AODE. Most '94 5.0's were MAF types. I would think that the E150 PCM's fuel and ignition maps wouldn't work as well with the GT motor due to the difference in cam and induction changes. I don't know if the GT PCM would install in the existing harness and work properly. You may be able to compare the schematics and figure that out.

As Mark noted, the PCM is an OBD1 version. You can buy a cheap reader and pull the codes. The Ford PCM has a "self test" diagnostics mode that tests the basic systems for the engine and transmission. If it fails any of the test it will display the code. This is in addition to any codes that are presently stored.

Falling out of OD could be an internal problem. The OD clutches could be burned up or the OD drum bushing chewed up. That it works cold and falls out hot is a typical symptom. However, it this is also a symptom of a bad MLP (manual lever position) sensor. The MLP is on the side of the driver's side of the transmission where the selector shaft goes through the case. A bad MLP is likely to not act up until it gets hot. More importantly, it is unlikely to set a code.

So check for codes. If nothing obvious there, I would change the MLP and see if that solves your problem.

 

Ok, we've ruled out the computers difference being and issue. This sounds like a sensor malfunction. Does the O/D cancel light on the end of the shifter blink at all?

 

The OD cancel light has never worked since I've owned her, I changed the button back in the summer but nothing happend. Also to mention, my linkage is off a lil and I have no Idea how to adjust it. Could this be the problem? The shifter lever sits more toward the nuetral mark instead of the drive mark.

 

Is the shifter really off or is it the needle? Take the dash bezel off, you'll need to remove the engine cover (doghouse) as well. There will be a nylon string that connects the indicator to the steering column. There is a thumb wheel on it, that's how you adjust it. Adjust it in neutral so you can get the best on both ends.