frame primer pictures
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old and in the way
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
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From: Marietta, Ohio
surfing a welding board of all places and found these
ROTO
I'm not a big fan of engine stand cookers, but this one is done pretty good...
a little cheaper alternative maybe
later
John
ROTO
I'm not a big fan of engine stand cookers, but this one is done pretty good...
a little cheaper alternative maybe
later
John
Which welding board did this come from? I belong to the Welding Web board and they have a forum for project threads. They seem to have a lot of project pictures. This guy seems to have documented everything he does.
The only thing I see wrong with this cooker is that about the cheapest you can get engine stands is from HF for $40.00. By the time you invest $80.00 in two of them and make the necessary modifications it would be easier to just fab the whole thing. Yours looks a whole lot cleaner than this guy's rig. Even at today's prices that $80.00 will go a long way toward buying the steel you need to do it right. Of course I suppose if you have two stands around that you don't need, it could be a reasonable alternative. I like your's better.
Later man...
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old and in the way
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
dave,
I agree on the design and cost.... just offering an alternative I found... I think I found it on the Miller site
Lets see your pics of some small projects - Miller Welding Discussion Forums
look for lins to 67chevelle's posts and links to his site
later
john
I'll have the Roast Duck
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From: Northshore, MN
Thanks, John. After thinking about it for awhile, I will need both rotisseries for all my projects. But as you mentioned, the clearance needed for a frame is less than a car body....this I can incorporate into the design, which I hope will cost less.
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
Havi,
after thinking about it a while and looking at some pics... the upright on the cooker is drilled about every two inches up to about 6'... so you could raise the cross arm to a dangerous height if you wanted to... then the only restriction you'd have twisting the body would be ceiling height.. I guess.
the frame is about 6' wide with the cab mounts and runningboard mounts so a cab/body wouldn't be any wider.. just a little more cumbersome to handle...
later
John
after thinking about it a while and looking at some pics... the upright on the cooker is drilled about every two inches up to about 6'... so you could raise the cross arm to a dangerous height if you wanted to... then the only restriction you'd have twisting the body would be ceiling height.. I guess.
the frame is about 6' wide with the cab mounts and runningboard mounts so a cab/body wouldn't be any wider.. just a little more cumbersome to handle...
later
John
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From: Marietta, Ohio
Havi,
after thinking about it a while and looking at some pics... the upright on the cooker is drilled about every two inches up to about 6'... so you could raise the cross arm to a dangerous height if you wanted to... then the only restriction you'd have twisting the body would be ceiling height.. I guess.
the frame is about 6' wide with the cab mounts and runningboard mounts so a cab/body wouldn't be any wider.. just a little more cumbersome to handle...
later
John
after thinking about it a while and looking at some pics... the upright on the cooker is drilled about every two inches up to about 6'... so you could raise the cross arm to a dangerous height if you wanted to... then the only restriction you'd have twisting the body would be ceiling height.. I guess.
the frame is about 6' wide with the cab mounts and runningboard mounts so a cab/body wouldn't be any wider.. just a little more cumbersome to handle...
later
John
How did you manage to remove the weld seam baed from inside the box tibe so you cound slide the the larger tube over the smaller one? That has been a major stumbling block for me in using telescoping designs with the square tube. Going one size lower in wall thickness results in a sloppy fit in my experiences.
Dave
I'll have the Roast Duck
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From: Northshore, MN
Dave, I'm not sure if a seamless box tube is available or not, but that's one solution. Engine hoists use a seamless tube, but I believe they are specially made, or specially ordered. Otherwise, a quick grind to relief the Outside of the inner tube might allow clearance. Just hope the seam weld isn't too big. In replacing my engine hoist "slider", the tube's seam isn't any more than a 1/16" sticking out from the inside. As for the radius of the ID of the outer tube, I just ground a 1/4" radius down the outer edges of the inner tube. But if seamless box tube is available, I'd say it would be great. My .02.
John, for the frame width, I was considering the 78 F150 frame, 79 Bronco frame, IH frames, etc... The running board supports do make the old ones wider for sure. Good point on that, thanks.
A "big" bridgeport mill with a die grinder type bit would be handy for the ground relief, lol.
John, for the frame width, I was considering the 78 F150 frame, 79 Bronco frame, IH frames, etc... The running board supports do make the old ones wider for sure. Good point on that, thanks.
A "big" bridgeport mill with a die grinder type bit would be handy for the ground relief, lol.
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old and in the way
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
John,
How did you manage to remove the weld seam baed from inside the box tibe so you cound slide the the larger tube over the smaller one? That has been a major stumbling block for me in using telescoping designs with the square tube. Going one size lower in wall thickness results in a sloppy fit in my experiences.
Dave
How did you manage to remove the weld seam baed from inside the box tibe so you cound slide the the larger tube over the smaller one? That has been a major stumbling block for me in using telescoping designs with the square tube. Going one size lower in wall thickness results in a sloppy fit in my experiences.
Dave
several methods... I have some die grinder carbide burrs with a long shaft.... about 6" of reach... so you can work it from both ends... I've also got a narrow width air belt sander... looks like a piston with a 3/8" wide belt and the third and favorite is a file...
later
John
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From: Marietta, Ohio
DAVE....
several methods... I have some die grinder carbide burrs with a long shaft.... about 6" of reach... so you can work it from both ends... I've also got a narrow width air belt sander... looks like a piston with a 3/8" wide belt and the third and favorite is a file...
later
John
several methods... I have some die grinder carbide burrs with a long shaft.... about 6" of reach... so you can work it from both ends... I've also got a narrow width air belt sander... looks like a piston with a 3/8" wide belt and the third and favorite is a file...
later
John
Later Man...
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From: Kansas City area
I was at a car show in Ottawa, KS today and this was being displayed. Looked sort of interesting. Roller Hoop
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From: northwestern Ontario
Hi Havi, if you look in my gallery entitled seat belts, the last picture shows my frame on a rottiserie I built this summer. My frame is now painted and almost assembled and I'm planning to put the body of my panel on it soon. I used 3/16th material, 3 " , 2 1/2" and 2" square tubing that allows movement without any deburring of seams in the tubing. I was going to create another gallery with drawings and dimensions. I planned it by taking ideas from several I've seen on the internet. I tried posting the picture but I'm out of practise.
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