i have a 77 250 hiboy with the transfercase. as many of you know the all time really sucks...so i was wondering if anybody has used the superlift lockouts sold by jegs...pros and cons.

thanks

 

I did not know that Superlift even made Locking hubs.
You do know that you will have to purchase a complete "part time" conversion kit.
There is more to converting a 203 case to part time than just installing front locking hubs.
Because of the design of the full time case, The truck will not go anywhere if the front hubs are unlocked.
In order to get the truck to move, the case will have to be selected into one of the "LOC" positions, and this is counterproductive since the front shaft will still have output and the front end will still be turning.
You have to take the case apart to complete the conversion, and while it can be done in the truck, can be a little time consuming.
For the money and time spent on a 203, I might consider finding a 205 case to replace the 203.
This will require a litte work, and new driveshafts, but this is a large return for a rather small investment.
Eventually the chain will stretch, and you will be taking the case apart anyway, so when you add up all of the cost associated with the maintenance of a 203, the upgrade 205 starts to make a little more sense.

 

As for hubs, you wont find anythng better than the good ol' WARN premiums. Anything else is just crap.

 

sorry, i meant super winch...but can i just have the lock outs and still have the rest turning,... im going to be using the 4wd alot, im just wanting the lock outs for transportation uses...save tires

 

This will still not help you, since you will have to run in the LOC position.
Understand that the transfer case has a center differential, and it works like a differential in an axle. It permits the front to turn at a different rate than the rear, and prevents the tires from scrubbing.
I do not see how you are having tire wear problems. You should have an open differential up front, so your tires can turn at different speeds from front to rear, and from left to right during any turn.
Many adds talk about tire wear problems, but this is almost impossible with open diffs. heak, this would be almost impossible with LS units, since they too would permit different wheel speeds.
Not saying that you can't install locking hubs, but you will not accomplish anything. The trucks case will always have to be angaged in "LOC", so there is no advantage.
If you are having tire wear problems, then you may need to look elsewhere for the problem. Perhaps a poor ball joint or a "toe" issue.
The factory springs are thick and ride rough. These springs promote tire cupping when the shocks are not adequate. Perhaps this is the tire wear problem?
I do not believe any tire wear problems are a direct result of the transfer case, if the case is working properly. (old wives tail actually).
A complete conversion might net a little better mileage, but I do not feel that less tire wear is a benifit.
Maybe though.........

 

ok, but why does it have to be in lock... i can drive it just fine in the High & low positions with no problem, but put it in lock and its like flippin a locker switch, yet mind this is still a project so its only drove around the farm. it used to be a hard working farm truck before i bought it.

 

Ok, good question.
Remember when I mentioned that you have three differentials?
I also mentioned the different wheel speed required to make a turn? The fronts have to turn at a different speed than the rear.
Since the truck is always in 4wd, a differential between the rear axle and the front axle has to be there to compensate for this difference in speed.
This center diff allows different speeds and prevents the truck from hopping during a turn. You can encounter this when you engage the "LOC" postion, and turn on a high traction area like a regular paved road, or even a hard packed surface. This is the tires trying to turn at different rates, but unable to. Just like a spool, or locked differential in an axle would under the same situation.
Alright, this center differntial will only send power to the axle with the least amount of traction (front to rear) and this is how it is able to permit the axles to turn at different speeds from front to rear.
This requires you to always have the front axle engaged, just like the rear. Failure to do so, will be considered a low traction situation, just like making a turn, and the output will be directed to the axle with the least amount of resisatnce. In this case, it will be the front axle, since there is not a mechanical link to the ground.
In short, with the hubs unlocked, the front driveshaft will turn, and the rear axle, will get zero power. You will be stuck, and cant go anywhere, until you lock the center diff, and provide output the the rear axle.
This is the same concept as removing an axle shaft, or lifting one tire off of the ground with an open differntial. The power would go to the missing axle, or the tire off of the ground, and zero motion.
The same is true for the center diff.
Adding locking front hubs, would be just like lifting a tire off of the ground.
This is also true for removing the front driveshaft.

 

ok gotcha, thanks alot, so im go to drive it just in the high setting ( not in lock) and not hurt anything

 

The Warn hubs are my favorit but the superwinch hubs are also great. They have been around a long time and are every bit as good as the Warns but the Warns are just the coolest. I don't run lock-out hubs because they all are weak and break. I changed mine out to 35 spline outer shafts and use drive flanges. Of course I cant unlock mine but it don't break. I have a used mismatched set of warn 30 spline hubs and 30 spline outers and if you need them you can have them for dirt.

 

I too have a 77 F-250 highboy with full time 4x4 . I switced the axel shafts ,spindles and lockouts from another 77 F-250 ,and it seems to drive fine.

 

Look for a set of the original Spicer hubs that many of the 73 and newer F250's,and some chev/GMC's out of the 70's came with originally,you will likely need to scour some junk yards to find them,but i seem to recall hearing they were actually regarded as the best locking hubs around,supposedly there design or metallurgy is even better than the Warn's which are the industry standard