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Summit racing lists a 140 amp powermaster 1 wire alt for late 80's early 90's ford trucks. Well under $200.
Thinking of getting one for my 1990 F350 460.
Anyone with any experience with these?
Would the one wire hookup ppose any problems?
This is the kind of amperage a starter draws. At the very least, the single wire off the alternator would have to be #2 or #4 cabling to handle this current. It also seems like very heavy drive belts would be required as that alternator is producing about 2.5 horsepower at peak.
Sounds like overkill to me. I am curious what Sparky or the other guys think about this.
This is the kind of amperage a starter draws. At the very least, the single wire off the alternator would have to be #2 or #4 cabling to handle this current. It also seems like very heavy drive belts would be required as that alternator is producing about 2.5 horsepower at peak.
Sounds like overkill to me. I am curious what Sparky or the other guys think about this.
Thanks CougarJohn I am blushing
You are correct, in my opinion anyway , that the present wire is a little undersized. I would run 2 #6 or #8 wires just because it is easier to work with them than one big #2 or #4.
That said the alternator will only put out the amps that is asked of it. So unless you are drawing over a 100amps constantly the big alternator is a little overkill. But the power would be available if you needed it.
The one wire alternators are good, but when the regulator goes you can either replace the alternator or rebuild it. I think that the external regulator/alternator setups are much cheaper in the long run.
Sparky
ps
Just a little misconception the alternator doesn't produce horsepower it uses it, as does every accessory on the engine, power steering pump, a/c compressor, fan/waterpump,etc. I would use the belt recommended for that type of alternator.
Cougarjohn is correct when he says it will produce 2.5Hp
It will be producing 2.5 hp worth of electrical power. (roughly 1900 watts) Power in = power out so it will also be taking 2.5 hp from the motor (plus any inefficiencies, so it probably takes 3-4 hp from the motor.)
Also, my 97 Cougar has a 130 amp alternator and I don't remember any abnormally large wires going to it.
Thanks
I know everyone says it won't work but I plan to use the big alt plus a batery isolator plus a deep cycle optima(seperate and isolated from the main battery) hooked to a 1500 continous 2000 peak inverter to run a small 110 AC unit that draws 4.8 amps 110volt when running maybe twice that on startup.
I figure the battery buffer capacity of inverter and big alt should cover it.
This way my rig is cooled before I reach a plug in spot
Been told it cannot be done but the numbers check the inverter was much cheeper then an geneartor and its waranty even includes things pluged into it.
Plus extra power for winch and a charged isolated backup battery.
Win win as I see it.
Could use my old portable gas generator for any remote sites after I park.
Jud, I just checked the Harbor Freight catalog on this. They sell a 2250 watt portable (53 lb.) 110v generator using a 5 1/2 Briggs and Stratton. It goes for $389. Maybe you could add up the parts you are considering, factor in the labor and aggravation of getting it all to work, and play it against the Harbor Freight item. It is item 41018-3CHA by the way.
Here is a useful site that gives the current-carrying capacity of wires:
http://www.wiktel.com/standards/ampacit.htm
According to the chart, Charlez, it would be prudent to use at least #2 cable to carry those 130 amps safely. It may be that your car's regulator doesn't ever call for the full 130 amps. If it did, I suspect a standard #10 wire would be getting quite hot.