So I have no earthly idea what is going on and neither does the Ford Truck center near me.
I have an intermittent problem. The truck will be running and all of the sudden I start to loose power and then it is completely gone.
Well had it towed to dealership and it sat for 3 days and then they got to it and changed the CPS. (Which was changed last december).
Anyway, it ran great/fine for 5 days. It would surge b/w 5-800 rpms upon a cold start but would resolve with acceleration while idling. (They checked in the glowplugs while it was at the dealership last and they say they checked out fine).

So last night I ran the truck on the highway for about 15 min. and then it slowly lost power as I pulled off the highway.

Had the truck towed home. Left it on the trickle battery charger all night. It started up this morning and ran rough then smoothed out and ran parked the whole time for about 10 min. then let it sit and charge and then for about 25 min. and then I let it sit and it ran for 25 min.

When it dies it sputters and dies.

I am thinking electrical. I have recrimped and replaced the connectors for the ICP. The dealer put in another cps (although the truck always showed a signal on the tach when cranking).

I have found loose connectors on my alternator. I see a partial bare wire on the alternator about 1 cm of bare wire.

Also, the truck seems to be shifting an weird times, right in the power curve. I have pulled everything that isn't stock.

I have pressed and checked the harness to the electrical part of the injectors.

The EBPV connector at the turbo has been pulled off for a while. It is also 80 -100 degree weather here.

Can anyone give me a check list?

The truck runs it just won't stay running. The alternator is only 3 months old. Would a bad alt cause me to die while running or bad connectors?

The batteries don't seem to stay fully charged although I have been cranking on it for the past couple of weeks.

 

first check your main engine harness where it runs across the left valve cover. they have been known to chaffe there, usually on the sd's but i have run across it on the obs trucks.

i see you run wvo, i have had several trucks running it that plugged there fuel filters. try replacing and redriving

 

You need a VOM meter. If the alternator is not putting out enough current, the batteries will discharge to keep the truck running until it's below 12VDC. Sounds like your alternator is on vacation, while the rest of the truck is at work. With the truck off, the batteries should be 12.8VDC +/- With the truck running, the batteries should be at 14.2VDC+/-

 

I have replaced every filter I have.

On the wiring harness, do you mean driver's side?
If it is, how would I replace it?

My filter though doesn't stick to the top of the screw cap. usually they do. I will replace again.

Also my schrader valve is broke, b/c it show no psi on a tire gauge while running. So I can't tell how the fuel is doing, but it runs for a while so ....
I am lost.

 

the pcm will still function until 8 volts. did the dealer get any codes? when it dies will it recrank or are the batteries dead?

 

I have one, but don't know how to use it.
What do I set it to on the rotary dial?

 

if you depress the shrader by hand does fuel come out? if not unscrew it and crank the truck till it fires to see if fuel is coming out. you need to check your pressure.

 

When it dies it will crank for a while until I notice that I don't have enough juice.
The dealer only found a bad cps code. Could it be bad already?

 

it should have a dc volt function. pick the scale that shows nearest 12volts as a max. typicly you have 3 or more scales to choose from on the dc side, a 20, 50 and 500 or something along those lines.

 

check the connector at the cps for a loose connection but i doubt thats it.



the wire harness is on the drivers side and is about a 1-1.5 inch thick harness near the front of the valve cover. has a large.....50? pin connector i think? that has a 10mm bolt holding them together. typicaly the rub point is on the bottom on the valvecover or the bolt stud. if thats it just repair it, dont replace the whole harness.

also check your ipr for the nut backing off and check the wires to see if they are melted

 

I pulled the schrader valve out and no fuel cam out then cranked it and it started to spurt after a second of delay. It is coming out in a great flow while cranking.

the ICP looks to be fine and very snug.

I changed the fuel filter and hopefullly it will stay connected to the screw in top.

My voltmeter is done. I think. It won't power on so I will buy another one.

It didn't have any batteries so ..

I can't find the bolt that connects the wiring harness. I see connectors and I see a spot just below the a/c compressor that is being pushed down by the connector from the a/c.

 

Joe it sounds possible to be oil related.
Controls or pressure.

Bill

 

So Volt meter reads 13.3 on pass side and 13.5 on drivers. I just pulled off battery trickle charger and voltmeter was coming down on driver's side.

I replaced the 8k mile old amsoil a couple weeks ago. only 500 miles on it. Dipstick looks great. ICP ring isn't backed off and is tight. recrimped and took out 20k resistor.

Ideas?

 

you have ruled out all of the basics, i think its time to move on as madvan stated. at this point it sounds to be oil related but i hesitate due to the fact that no codes were set, however i am now leanign towards possible ipr o-rings. do you know where the ipr is and how to remove it?

 

how is the truck on a hot restart? after it stalls will it restart? if not then how long does it have to sit before she fires? 2-3 hours?