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Yes it does, sounds like one is showing what the turbo has been proven to, the other one is just showing perhaps what a drop in replacement can do with a chip.
As of right now I am looking at a garrett BB, instead of the TN units. A truck ran both turbos, the TN ended up eating itself, so they installed a Garrett and gained PSI and ran faster at the track.
$2,000.00 for the TN. Stay away from that place. I got mine $505.00 lower then that delivered to my door. The TN BB will boost much more than that. I thought you couldn't get a Gattet right now. Redoing it or something.
Yes it does, sounds like one is showing what the turbo has been proven to, the other one is just showing perhaps what a drop in replacement can do with a chip.
As of right now I am looking at a garrett BB, instead of the TN units. A truck ran both turbos, the TN ended up eating itself, so they installed a Garrett and gained PSI and ran faster at the track.
That's what I was thinking, but then the boost numbers are kind of backwards. Just goes to show you that you have to take everything with a grain of salt if Marketing wrote it...
If I were to get a turbo it would be the Garrett Ball Bearing. I've had friends who ran them back when they had 7.3s and they all liked it and had good luck with it.
We've had no problems getting the Garrett BB GTP38R. Sold quite a few in the last few weeks too. As far as those numbers, you need to make sure you're comparing apples to apples. You cannot run the Garrett, or TN w/o a chip. The larger wheel requires a chip to be running at 50HP or more, otherwise you'll actually loose power and boost. A stock truck w/ the BB turbo just does not have enought umph to run it properly. I run mine at 75-100 additional HP on the the TS chip. This gives me the best fuel economy in my truck.
Garrett also sells a new BB cartridge for the stock turbo. It will have some of the same benifits (quicker spool up, etc) and does not require the chip. The cartridge is a complete unit with new wheels. Basically the housing stays stock but the wheels and bearing are new. The only reason why we don't sell too many of them is because of the price. They cost about 400 less than a whole new GTP38R. For 400 bucks, most people opt for a whole new turbo with larger 88mm compressor wheel.
Yep, that is total bunk. If I have to I can dig up my old turbo efficiency maps where you can compare them. This is not rocket science, at least for us, as they are what they are and the math has been done. I have posted both here in the past.
I say get the GTP38R with the non-wastegated non-ebv 1.15 housing. I have just about a 1 to 1 drive pressure ratio now. There is no surge.
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