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I am trying to put my Bronco back on the road I took it down to have the codes read so i know what to fix it has been sitting for three years and it runs rough here are the codes tha came up if anyone out there can help me CODE 311,332,536,538 and 632 HELP PLEASE lol
Ignore the last 3 codes, they are operator error during the KOER test.
311 is thermactor system inop(air injection)
332 is EGR opening not detected.
A vacuum leak could cause both these, make sure the vacuum lines are connected to the thermactor diverter valves and EGR valve.. and are not broken or cracked. Autozone has some diagrams on the thermactor system in these trucks.
Hey Con thank you I am checking these now will post back when finished ohhhhhh by the way your 2.3 briggs and straton left me rotf lmao thanks for the laugh i neede it
If the gas is that old it needs to be drained out and used for starting bon fires!! Fuel
older then 90 days is starting to turn bad and that means the octane points are actually
risisng and that means you could be trying to burn 200 octane fuel!! Not gonna happen
at least not reliably. Get rid of the majority of it and then refill with fresh fuel, a couple
bottles of HEET and some Sta-bil to preserve the fuel you put in there if it is going to
sit for 90 days or more at a time.
was just a dam vac. leak all good on this issue now more to go beasty bronco very tempermental right now needs lots of attention lol hesitates under load real bad wants to cut out after driving 20 to 30 miles not sure if its injectors or cat checked codes got that all taken care of none coming up new wires new plugs new cap and rotor new fuel filter ran old gas out with sea foam and lucas injector cleaner. still runs like crap. ?????? injectors or cat possible i don't know sure could use some help here thanks to everyone who ahs replied to this and tried to help you guy's and this site are great for people like myself thanks again
Alright here we go some more problems or just ones that aren't hiding now lol I saw on another posting Missing under acceleration (only when hot) conanski had posted it might be the tfi module this was on a 92 bronco so i looked at mine and i dont see one looked for parts on az web site and they dont show one so what the heck is a tfi module and could this issue be clogged injectors or a clogged cat? if you have a thought please post it, as i will be driving the beasty Bronco up to my sister tomorrow so she has a vehicle to drive i do this under duress lol so help if you can please
92 probably has a remote mounted ICM ignition control module aka TFI module mounted on fender well under speed control and code pulling connectors. In my experience they quit like turning off the key not just running rough. After running thirty minutes if the module is too hot to hold fingers on it for three seconds it might be the wrong module. See my signature below. Double check your plug wire routing and firing order. If 302 separate #7 and #8, for 351 separate #5 and #6 to prevent cross firing wires. It seems logical to order them 5,6,7,8 on the valve cover loom. Don't do it.
92 probably has a remote mounted ICM ignition control module aka TFI module mounted on fender well under speed control and code pulling connectors. In my experience they quit like turning off the key not just running rough. After running thirty minutes if the module is too hot to hold fingers on it for three seconds it might be the wrong module. See my signature below. Double check your plug wire routing and firing order. If 302 separate #7 and #8, for 351 separate #5 and #6 to prevent cross firing wires. It seems logical to order them 5,6,7,8 on the valve cover loom. Don't do it.
b4hntn I'm a little confused on the wire routing and besides if i had them wron should it have not passed th arizona emission test pretty tough test here and as far as the cylinder order could you tell me right and left bank front to back then i'll know for sure to get it right had new engine installed back in ohio really its ran kind of rough since i followed there eouting when i replaced the wires and we both know they could have had it wrong from day one thanks for your help i greatly appriciate it
No brother she is a 93 with a 351w and it appears that i had the order correct so for sh-ts and giggles i replaced my tps sensor it looked real rough and i remember in the begining she threw a code wieh rhe tps sensor i bsted the small hose by it so when parts store opens i'll get some more and start her up let you know how it goes later thanks for the help
Looking at your distributor the firing order going counter clockwise is
1,3,clip,7,2,6,5,clip,4,8
6 and 5 fire sequentially so separate them in the plug wiring looms by running 7 and 8 wires between them.
The TPS is my next project also.
you might as well clean your maf at the same time i did and get some 5/8 hose befor you start you will probably need to replace it when you change the tps mine was dry and it cracked very easly well i guess my next venture when i get it back from my sister will be flow master 3 inch from cat back and newly reconditioned injectors and if it still runs bad after that maybe a 44 slug and start with a whole new engine ground up maybe 460 my wife will just love that lol
Last edited by soberdude94; Jul 27, 2008 at 01:57 PM.
Reason: spelling lol
Well guy's i drove her up the hill yesterday about 120 miles with out any real problems seems like the new tps and cleaning helped alot she did not stall. although she still ran a little rough or should i say very slugish could only do about 40-45MPH at best up a 6% grade i wonder if it is just the muffler cloged up it is the original one hum probably it and i think the other factor is just plain cloged injector's. by the wat b4hntn i have a grey module on this beasty girl cant wait to get her back home and get some more work done on her untill then guys i'll be checking in from time to time thanks to everyone for all the help this site and you guy's are awsome.