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However, IF you have a chip, or programmer, IT happens, I have the Hypertech Programmer, and I will get that one on occasion.... If you don't have a chip or programmer,,,,,,,
I have a Hypertech HyperPac and get this code when I really have to get into it? I will also act as if my turbo fails and you get that dieseling noise and loss of turbo power seemingly. I am looking at a new aftermarket turbo to improve performance and low and mid RPM. I am told to stay in the 88mm range if one wants turbo for drivability and sport? Any suggestions? Banks leaves the lower end out I am told but really holds on the upper?
That is the one I just found and was looking at as well. However, Extremediesel.com recommends staying with 88mm for low end and sport. Ron Holland, an 18 year turbo builder agrees. He tells me also the 38R's have problems and spool up slower with their 1.00 housing and he refuses to sell them because of known issues. I just decided to have him rebuild an upgraded stock unit as follows: Banks compressor wheel, upgraded actuator to raise the boost pressure (30lbs), an upgraded thrust bearing and a new fast spooling turbine wheel that is lighter than the stock wheel, spools up faster. And, everything balanced. This configuration is the best deal he has for the money he says, $765 after rebuildable core + 35 shipping.
Any of the problems with the 38R were resolved years ago. There are currently no known issues.
Originally Posted by l_anthony
... and spool up slower with their 1.00 housing
I have to completely disagree. No thrust/journal bearing turbo is better than a ball bearing turbo. The 38R has a 1.00 AR housing because the spool up is quicker with the ballbearing cartridge. There is no better drop in replacement turbo on the market for the 7.3L.
Originally Posted by l_anthony
upgraded actuator to raise the boost pressure (30lbs), an upgraded thrust bearing
These two things combined will spell early failure for your turbo. It is well known that the thrust/journal bearing on the stock turbos will not hold with regular use at or around 30psi. Even if its "upgraded", it is still a thrust/journal bearing and cannot handle the load. Be wary of people who use a lot of technical words and catch phrases to sell you something. You can do everything he is doing to your stock turbo by yourself for about $200.
First time I did this it took me about 4 hours start to finish. You should be able to do it that quick pretty easily. And save some money. Or just buy a 38R...
you might be right but I do think with the upgraded thrust bearing oiling 360 degrees vs stock oiling only 270 degrees, allows PSI up to 40lbs. with no problems? I would like the new Garrett but more money and I want low end and drivability/sport? Could you answer the age old question of what the max horsepower is on stock 7.3 2002 injectors?
+1 to what Stewart said. Honestly, I have a van turbo with the 1.15 exhaust housing and with the right tunes, I have plenty of low end and one hell of a top end. And driveability... Try 57,000 miles last year. No problems at all.
Honestly, if you don't want to be out the $1500 for a 38R, rebuild your stock turbo yourself. Save the money you would have spent with the other guy and get a few other toys to go fast. I would hate to see you spend $765 for a basically stock turbo.
I know what people say about the 360 degree thrust bearing, I have heard it before. I have had a reputable turbo builder and FTE sponsor, who will remain nameless, admit that a thrust bearing is still a thrust bearing no matter how well its oiled. And this is a sponsor who sells a turbo with a 360 degree thrust bearing. They have a limited lifespan when faced with the load that 30psi+ puts on it.