??? Apparently 5.0 ford f150 can get the oil pan replaced by jacking it up by the harmonic balancer, after removing mounts i think ?....

And a guy here just did his 99 f350 like this too !!!!!!

Is there a problem with doing this, I've never heard this before on FTE .....

 

I have done it on my f150. Almost could not get it high enough because the motor hit the fire wall. Have not done it on PSD (yet) But it appears it would need to go pretty high. I would try the balancer. But i think it would need to come forward and then up to get it nice and high to work on it. I might opt to use the "picker" the next time i do one. I want plenty of room under there to make sure everything is just so. My f150 was tough on space and i questioned everything was in place once done. Changed the oil pump also while it was off.

Dan

 

I am pretty sure that there was a long discussion about this, and it was agreed the motor had to come out, I will search for it here in a minute, there was also a recomendation on what to paint the pan with when you were done.

 

No matter how you get the old one off, paint the new one with POR-15 before you put it on.

 

The only way I have herd of to do it in frame with the 7.3 is to cut out the crossmember under the engine and weld it back in. Our engine is somewhat larger than a 302, and a 302 doesn't have a turbo sitting on top of it.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...placement.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...d-oil-pan.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...n-removal.html

Hope this helps,

 

NO NO NO!!!

Don't cut a thing under there. Drill the rivets out to remove the crossmember, switch pan, replace crossmember, reinstall rivets (if you can't deal with the rivet thing them just use some high grade nuts and bolts. Two hour job... max.

Although the crossmember is not 'load bearing' (until side impact) it is still an integral part of the framework.

 

I thought I read somewhere that motor needs to be flipped upside down with the sealant on it to allow the sealant to adhere correctly between the pan and block? When I have to replace my pan, motor is coming out.

 

We cut and lengthen the main frame rails on 56,000 gvw trucks all the time, trucks that get used in all kinds of frame torsion situations in farm fields. I have seen destroyed rims and tires, broken springs, and broken axles, but I can't think of a single situation where a stretched frame has failed. I would have no concerns at all about cutting and welding the cross member. By all means if you are not an experienced welder, don't do it, but if you are a good welder it should be stronger than original.

 

Ding Ding Ding... We have a winner!!!


The reason for pulling the motor is to allow the sealant to cure oil free... If you do it in frame, I hope you like oil leaks, because you will have one.

 

Also make sure you use fresh sealant as they do have a shelf life.

 

I was trying to keep it simple for the guy, assuming (much like you of me) that he was inexperienced or rather, working in the average mans driveway.

I'll agree that cutting that sucker and tacking it back up would be the fastest and easiest way to change the oil pan. However, a beneficial way of going about it would be to remove the rivets and go back with bolts. With the crossmember as a 'bolt-in' it sure makes it easy to check the mains.