Oil Pan replacement question
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Cuyahoga Falls
oh your in for a ton of fun. yeah you need to jack it up to remove it. you would be better off literally removing the engine to get it off because of the cross member under it makes it damn near impossible to remove. good luck
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 8
From: Cleveland, TN
It can be done but it AIN'T easy.. You have to drop the oil pump in the pan to get the pan off, then the pump has to be installed with the new pan sitting on the cross member...
There will probably be less chance of a problem if you pull the engine,,
I know this is not what you wanted to hear but I'm just stating facts... Sorry
There will probably be less chance of a problem if you pull the engine,,
I know this is not what you wanted to hear but I'm just stating facts... Sorry
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,800
Likes: 455
it it were mine, my future plans for the truck would dictate how i went about it. so, with that bein said, why do you have to replace the oil pan? how long do you plan on keeping the truck? what sorta shape is the truck in?
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
The truck is going to be a keeper at least till spring. The pan is rusting out pretty badly and will need to get changed out soon. I just bought it a couple of months ago, knowing it needed to be replaced, but was told it could be done in the truck. Truck itself is in pretty nice shape, can't seem to post a pic though.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,800
Likes: 455
well if youre keeping it, and it is in good shape, then its worth swapping. you can swap it with the motor in the truck, you just need to remove motor mounts and the motor up (a crane or a hoist is crucial to maintain your sanity). you can remove the tsunami intake to gain a little more clearance assuming your transmission has the extra space between it and the floor.
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 489
Likes: 1
yes, you need to jack the motor up and pull the intake, remove the down pipes and drop the pump on the pan.
I've done this more than once. My new solution is to drain the oil for a couple days, spray carb cleaner inside the oilpan to get the remaining oil/oil residue out, then grind the pan down to bare metal (showing pinholes and rot spots), brush on some Ospho, and then coating the whole thing with JB Weld. As long as you have pinhole leaks (which I would say is most cases) the JB Weld will hold for potentially years if you do it right.
I've gone from a seeping, wet rusted oilpan with lots of pinhole leaks to a dry pan for several months. Took about 8 tubes of JB Weld, but I didn't want to have to pull the downpipes off the manifold...that would have been a nightmare.
I've done this more than once. My new solution is to drain the oil for a couple days, spray carb cleaner inside the oilpan to get the remaining oil/oil residue out, then grind the pan down to bare metal (showing pinholes and rot spots), brush on some Ospho, and then coating the whole thing with JB Weld. As long as you have pinhole leaks (which I would say is most cases) the JB Weld will hold for potentially years if you do it right.
I've gone from a seeping, wet rusted oilpan with lots of pinhole leaks to a dry pan for several months. Took about 8 tubes of JB Weld, but I didn't want to have to pull the downpipes off the manifold...that would have been a nightmare.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
yes, you need to jack the motor up and pull the intake, remove the down pipes and drop the pump on the pan.
I've done this more than once. My new solution is to drain the oil for a couple days, spray carb cleaner inside the oilpan to get the remaining oil/oil residue out, then grind the pan down to bare metal (showing pinholes and rot spots), brush on some Ospho, and then coating the whole thing with JB Weld. As long as you have pinhole leaks (which I would say is most cases) the JB Weld will hold for potentially years if you do it right.
I've gone from a seeping, wet rusted oilpan with lots of pinhole leaks to a dry pan for several months. Took about 8 tubes of JB Weld, but I didn't want to have to pull the downpipes off the manifold...that would have been a nightmare.
I've done this more than once. My new solution is to drain the oil for a couple days, spray carb cleaner inside the oilpan to get the remaining oil/oil residue out, then grind the pan down to bare metal (showing pinholes and rot spots), brush on some Ospho, and then coating the whole thing with JB Weld. As long as you have pinhole leaks (which I would say is most cases) the JB Weld will hold for potentially years if you do it right.
I've gone from a seeping, wet rusted oilpan with lots of pinhole leaks to a dry pan for several months. Took about 8 tubes of JB Weld, but I didn't want to have to pull the downpipes off the manifold...that would have been a nightmare.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 793
Likes: 2
From: Vernon, BC
DuffTrucks, with all due respect to Dbuck50, don't JB weld your truck's oilpan. My 94 had the pan fixed with JB weld and it gave out while I was in the bush. It turned into a very expensive fix as I had to have a garage change it. My pan was so thin my fingernail went through it while I was trying to see how big the holes were. To me it wasn't worth the stress of not knowing if/when the patch would give out if I had it patched again.
BTW, the garage didn't remove the Y pipe or the crossover. They simply cut it and then welded it together again once the new pan was in place.
Dave
BTW, the garage didn't remove the Y pipe or the crossover. They simply cut it and then welded it together again once the new pan was in place.
Dave
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
From: Charm City
There's a product called 'Marine Tex', it can be found at boat supply stores. It's sort of like JB weld only better. You want the grey colored epoxy, not the white color. Sand and prep the pan then apply a nice even coat and let it dry for a day before re-filling the oil pan. I did this as a 'temp' fix on an F150 that I used to own, the 'temp' patch was holding strong after 2 years, I sold the truck with the patch still on the oil pan. I informed the new owner about my 'temp' fix and he laughed a bit and told me that this is how most boat owners fix their rusted oil pans.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
There's a product called 'Marine Tex', it can be found at boat supply stores. It's sort of like JB weld only better. You want the grey colored epoxy, not the white color. Sand and prep the pan then apply a nice even coat and let it dry for a day before re-filling the oil pan. I did this as a 'temp' fix on an F150 that I used to own, the 'temp' patch was holding strong after 2 years, I sold the truck with the patch still on the oil pan. I informed the new owner about my 'temp' fix and he laughed a bit and told me that this is how most boat owners fix their rusted oil pans.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
At least on a small block it's not impossible your motor mounts aren't anywhere near as much in the way as a 460, they actually wrap under the pan lip even after the engine is lifted up.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 489
Likes: 1
ddaybc is right, if you pan is fingernail thin...you need to replace. I think the JB weld works for pinhole leaks. The only way to find out is to take it down to bare metal. I used a twist wire wheel on my grinder and found it to be structurally sounds with only pinhole leaks (like 8 or so). JB weld is tuff stuff and if you do a continual coat around the whole pan...you have a pretty good solution. And the suggested marine expoxy might even be better.
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