Well I took my injection pump out and was cleaning everything up, and i was under my hood while my buddy was playin with somethin....ends up it was the pump...he was randomly turning the pump and wasnt counting how many times he turned it, and i have no idea how to time the pump back to the engine....any help?

 

Dont worry about it- the drive on the pump can only go on one way and when it is installed will work properly. Use the factory timing marks to in stall the pump ( the mark on the pump housing to the mark on the mounting housing) Then have your local dealer hook it up and set the static timing and you should be good to go.

 

is it possible to time the engine myself, or do i have to take it to a dealer

 

You can do the initial timing your self by lining up the factory marks, and chances are you will be good, however it's a good idea to have a dealer check it out to make sure the timing is right so as to avoid a detonation or pre-ignition problem which could lead to more serious problems. Shouldnt cost a whole lot- they just put a probe in the timing marker and connect to the number one cylinder and if the timing is right your good to go, if not, its a quick adjustment.

 

How about this? I got my marks as close as I could, but the truck wont stay running. It starts for a second and revs to about 2000 and just cuts right out. my mark is about 4 lines off, will that make that much of a difference in the timing?

 

I think you still have air in the fuel system. How much run time did you get since the pump was put back in? It usually sputteres and surges a little when I fire mine up after draining the IP.

 

4 lines off the factory marks?

To which side?

Top of the IP toward the passenger side is advance.

Both lines should be right in line, or IP mark slightly to the passenger side of the drive gear cover mark.

You did remove the IP from the drive gear cover leaving the drive gear splined to the cam gear, right?

Good luck with finding a dealer that still has the IDI timing meter and a mechanic that knows how to use it.

 

i did the same thing only i took mine off to put a gear housing on it with a tach sensor. i also turned the fuel screw in one flat and put it all together and now it runs but misses. it dosent smoke at all or anything else just misses. Any ideas? did i turn the fuel up to much? i did not take the gear off the motor so i know the gear didnt get messed up.

 

Dave, I took the pump out but did not mess with the gear or turn it or anything, it was just the injection pump that was turned when it was out of the truck...and the timing marks are off to the driver side, I am trying to find a way to turn the pump to get it timed up.

 

There are a couple bolt holes on the drivers side of the IP.

They are there to mount the VRV or FILP sensor on automatic trucks.

Since I don't have the fancy tool, I made one out of 3/4" angle iron about 16" long.
I drilled a couple holes in the angle so I could screw short bolts into the IP holes.

After the angle is mounted, loosen the IP bolts, grab the angle and you can get just about any amount of movement in either direction you want.

Makes moving small amounts, then holding in position till a bolt is tight so much easier.

Lines should be dead on in line for the correct static timing.
With the IP and injectors I have now, I have the IP line about 3/32" to the passenger side of the gear cover line.
Nice rattle when the cold timing advance is on, almost a slight rattle after it kicks off.
All traces of rattle are gone as soon as I give it any throttle at all.

Starts good, power is good.

That setting may be a little hot for a stock IP though, mine has several non stock adjustments inside the IP.

Normal rule is rattle when the advance is on, no rattle when the advance is off.

If you set yours that way, it will probably be as good or better than most mechanics will get it set.

You can always play with the setting, IP and injector condition do play a factor in how much advance the engine is happy with.

 

Well I got the truck running, but i have some adjustments to make, because my power is not constant. I can be goin up the road at 60 mph, and it will randomly bogg down through all gears and eventually stall out...after a few seconds of turning it over it runs again, sketchy, but it runs, smooths out with full power and a few seconds later it does the same?????? It feels like it is starving for fuel, but i am running regular diesel in it not bio. I just dont know

 

Sounds like a fuel supply problem.

When it stalls, if you remove the fuel cap of the tank you are running on, does it sound like their is a vacuum in the tank?

What year is your truck?

 

My truck is an 86 with a 6.9, I added a turbo and turned the pump up before I was running on bio...but the way I make my fuel may not be the right way for my older style pump, i should have done some research before hand, even though the pump is not the original one. I talked to a guy from an injection shop about my problem, and he said that there is a fitting on top of my pump on my return line that has a little glass ball-like regulator in it, that could be bad or my primary advance is bad in my pump just from running the fuel that I was running in it.

The way i make my fuel is the same exact way a buddy of mine runs in his powerstroke, now i know they have more fuel heaters and such, but I just thin mine up more, and i dont see why his runs good on it and mine quit so soon?? He is running his on 40,000 miles on the fuel and still runs good and mine quit at 500. so i guess i will do more investigating and mess with my timing more and buy one of those fittings before sending my pump out to be rebuilt.

 

Some of the old original IP's have more rubber parts in them.

Rubber and biodiesel are not good friends.

Remove the return line fitting on top of the IP, if you see black chunks of rubber the flex ring is done for, you need a new IP.

On the 86, there are tank vents in the top of the tank.
The vents have small rubber vent lines that are supposed to be clipped to the frame or cross member above the tank.
I have seen them blocked with mud, which then creates a vacuum in the tank.

Your problem could be chunks in the return line blocking it off at the return fitting, that causes to much fuel pressure in the IP which will kill the engine.
It could also be the vent line blocked, which will run the engine out of fuel.

Both ways it acts almost the same way when it quites.
Power just keeps dropping off till the engine stalls.

 

well you should know that my IP is not the factory one, it is an aluminum pump that was replaced a number of years ago.