Have a blown IDI with a good inj pump, want to put on my good working IDI i just bought for $500. previous owner took injection pump off with gear as it was bad no spinning are they hard to turn by hand? I have another injection pump from another IDI. i found the Y marks. should i just line them up on the new pump and gear? can it be timed 180 degrees off by lining up the Y marks? should i set the donor engine to TDC then remove pump? the injector gear dowl is alittle at the four oclock position on current IDI engine i am working with.

 

Not sure of everything you are saying here, but perhaps I can offer some advice:
1. The IP gear turns 1:1 with the camshaft gear, which is just below.
2. The IP gear should be installed Y to Y, which should make the timing runnable. You will have to adjust it a bit from there.
3. The IP, when full of air, should spin mostly freely with a clicking noise. If you've got it full of fuel, it will be harder to turn. If you put it on your bench and hook the injectors and lines up to it, and give it fuel(this includes turning the FSS solenoid on), it will be /really/ hard to turn -- compressing to 2,000 PSI takes a lot of effort.
4. If the gear housing doesn't come off(you pull the pump out of the back, removing the three bolts on the front), the gear will float inside the housing, but /will not/ rotate; you cannot lose your timing this way. I'd recommend removing the IP from your donor truck this way, and re-using the old IP gear and cover.
5. Once you get it together, bled and attempt to start it, it may not fire at all. If you let the GPs cool down and use ether, you can get it to start with the timing /way/ off(two teeth at least). If you get it started and it smokes a ton of white smoke and sounds very quiet, you're 2-3 teeth retarded. If you start it and it clatters very loudly and smokes black, you're at least 1-2 teeth advanced.
I personally have not yet been able to line things up dot-to-dot and have a working, properly timed engine; I've always been off by a tooth one way or another, and have to mark my current dowel position, remove the 4 housing bolts and pry it up just enough to rotate it one tooth by hand.

 

so as long as the Y is lined up then its ok and the teeth shouldn;t be off right? once i take the pump old pump off will it get full of air? how can i turn the old injection pump by hand to line it up to the Y marks once i have my Y marks on the two gears lined up? i will have to rob the gear housing bolts and stuff from the blown donor engine also parts are missing. where can you buy a timing light to pulse the #1 line and time the pump?

 

That's the theory. I've never had it actually work that way; just assume that you're going to have some trouble starting and have to move it a tooth once it fires off.

Yes; both the pump and the lines will drain as soon as you crack/open the fittings. You will end up with diesel everywhere. Keep some rags handy. Once you get everything back together, you will need to bleed the system by leaving the high-pressure lines slightly loose at each injector and crank the engine with the accelerator/throttle lever in the 'floored' position.
Uh, not sure what you mean. The gears need to be lined up to the Y-marks, and if you are sliding the pump into the back of the housing and onto the gear, the IP shaft needs to be rotated till the notch lines up with the pin in the gear. I've done that with a small screwdriver through one of the bolt holes in the gear, until I got it to drop in.
In that case, don't worry about it. You can always re-time that donor engine if you decide you need it.
I don't know. I have a 'fox valley' brand luminosity probe myself, but I've ended up making adjustments more by 'feel' than by number. The numbers just work as a reference point.
Just get it running first. Then there's some tricks you can use to get it timed 'well enough'. Then, if you really have $$$ to spare, you can try to find a luminosity probe or pulse-timing unit.

 

I'm not naming names, and I'm not supporting anyone because I actually really hate the "good ole boys club" over there, but on oilburners there's a guy who rents timing meters. Just ask over there and about 50 guys will chime in on who to ask, and then the guy himself will come in and tell you the exact same thing that everyone else already has.

It's a cheaper option than buying a meter that you'll use a maximum of 5 times in your entire life.

 

can you have an injection pump rebuilt for cheaper then new

 

I don't even know if anyone actually sells a real "new" injection pump anymore. Rebuilding is the way to get a new-to-you pump though. The list of reputable companies that can properly rebuild a pump and not just re-seal it is very, VERY exclusive. A proper rebuild should cost you around $600-$800.

 

Check out R&D IDI Performance. As far as I know, he's one of those few reputable sellers.

 

Ford 6.9L 7.3L IDI Parts

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