Pyro probe location?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Woodside, CA
Pyro probe location?
I just got my 3 pillar gauge setup from itp and it got here quick so and i got dipricol optix gauges and like the looks of them. So i know i can tap the pyro probe into 2 locations. pre and post turbo. I was thinking post turbo so i do not have to pull everything apart and not worry about a little chunk of steel going into the turbo. would this be a ok or should i got pre turbo and tear the manifold out and tap it? the gauge redlines at 1300 if it makes a difference. Thanks for the input.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Just drill the hole up from underneath, that way hardly any shavings will go in. Whatever does will just blow out past the wheel anyway. That's how I did it. Certainly no need to remove anything to do it!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Woodside, CA
thanks, i found a link after a while (i was looking before i asked) but it seemed to clear it up pretty well. heres the link for anyone else thats looking for a difference and what to do with the shavings.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...t-turbo-2.html
posted by JTharvey
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...t-turbo-2.html
posted by JTharvey
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
You don't even need to drill with it running. What difference does that really make?? If a few small shavings are in there without it running and you start it, they blow out. If you drill it running, they blow out just the same. 
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster, Pa.
Trending Topics
Master of Strokes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 25
From: CA
Here what I do for every project.
1. Take your time
2. Be patient
3. Is stuff isn't going well walk away for 10 min and then come back that seems to always help me a lot when working on the truck.
1. Take your time
2. Be patient
3. Is stuff isn't going well walk away for 10 min and then come back that seems to always help me a lot when working on the truck.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
If you've never tapped before, you might practice on some scrap. When you drill, start small and work your way up to the right size hole. Sharp bits are your friend here...
When you tap, use lots of oil and work the tap in firmly, but slowly. Start in, then work it back out. Go in a little further, then back out. Make sure you don't go in too far -- if you go into the up-pipes, you don't want to run the tap all the way in. once you get a good ways in, try fitting the sensor adapter in the hole. Keep doing that until it fits nice & snug against the pipe. If you go into the manifold, take your time and be careful. You don't want to crack it.
Here's where I put mine:
When you tap, use lots of oil and work the tap in firmly, but slowly. Start in, then work it back out. Go in a little further, then back out. Make sure you don't go in too far -- if you go into the up-pipes, you don't want to run the tap all the way in. once you get a good ways in, try fitting the sensor adapter in the hole. Keep doing that until it fits nice & snug against the pipe. If you go into the manifold, take your time and be careful. You don't want to crack it.
Here's where I put mine:
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 1
From: Farmington, Minnesota
A little chunk of steel will be the least of your worries when you are guessing what your real EGTs are if you were to mount it post turbo.
I agree with what has been said you are drilling up gravity is going to be in your favor, very little shavings will get in there and the ones that do will be so fine your turbo won't know the difference.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 0
From: Kamloops, BC
When I did mine a few weeks ago I stuck a little pen like magnet up in the hole after I was done... (I posted pics on here about that) The few little bits that were in there jumped on the magnet and out they came.. Also remember to let the truck idle for a few minutes when you are all done.. this way any bits go through when the turbo isn't spinning real fast... (you probably already read that in the instructions)
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 789
Likes: 16
From: West Coast/L.A. Area
I wanted to know how hot the EGT is BEFORE it goes to the turbo even though drilling and tapping a casting (the manifold) makes me a little nervous. But nevertheless that's how I did mine over a year ago, and it's been fine so far. As they said, go slow, I like coming in at the bottom and I greased the tap. Also in drilling (if you drill the manifold), you want to make sure you are going in straight and not wobbling the drill.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
Out of all the forums that I visit, I have never once heard of anyone damaging their turbo due to shavings from drilling and tapping the manifold. Thousands of people have done this, and all without problems. There's nothing to be concerned or nervous about. Whatever tiny pieces are left in the manifold will be blown out when you start the truck. At idle the turbo isn't under any kind of load, so any metal pieces blow right past the turbine wheel without damaging it.
When drilling the manifold, make sure you step up in bit sizes. I used 3 smaller bits before the 4th being the proper sized hole. This ensures that 1) metal shavings stay small, and 2) you don't crack the manifold.
When drilling the manifold, make sure you step up in bit sizes. I used 3 smaller bits before the 4th being the proper sized hole. This ensures that 1) metal shavings stay small, and 2) you don't crack the manifold.
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
From: South LA
I tapped mine myself, followed all of the advise on the forum and came out smoother than a baby's butt. After all was said and done, forgot to suck the shavings out with a wetdry vac and has been running fine ever since.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
