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It sounds like you need to rebuild your limited slip. The factory Traction Lock in an 8.8 is easy, but you'll have a larger axle that might be a pain. I know the 9.75 is a giant PITA. I'm not sure on the other axles, but in the 8.8 Ford screwed them up from the start and put the clutches in order so that two steels and two fibers went together. That eliminated a ton of break away torque. When I rebuilt it I alternated them and was able to add one fiber plate. No more one tire fire any more. With one tire on pavement and one in the dirt it still spins both of them now.
If you have air tools and work efficiently you can do an 8.8 in an hour or less. On my 9.75 I was reshimming it to reduce the axle end play and it took me two or three weeks of getting one hour at a time in 2 or 3 times a week.
If yours is a 9.75 it is probably worth it to take it to a pro and let them deal with it. I have a spare clutch set from Ford for one. $120 shipped to the lower 48 if you're interested. I think list on them is $189.
FWIW, my 9.75 will never spin both tires unless I'm going dead straight and both tires have very nearly equal traction.
I don't think a 94 F250 has a 9.75 rear end. . .thats the 7700 GVWR F150 axle in the newer trucks I believe.
Your truck has the full floating Sterling 10.25 and it should be about as easy or easier than a Sterling 8.8 SS was talking about. And with it being a full floater you probably don't even need to put on jack stands if there is enough room under there as is. . .chock the wheels, apply the emergency brake, pull the cover, and pull the axle shafts. . .case should pry right out, just take note as to how and what side the 2 shims go and the retainer caps. . .replacing the LS pack should/is like changing the 8.8 out, and there are many write ups on that. Never got mine finished before I canned the whole project, so no comments there
I hope I didn't over simplify it, but it's not THAT hard. . .
This link will give you an idea of how to do the 8.8. Like someone else said, the 10.25 will be a little different as far as axle shaft removal, but the LS clutch packs should be similar.
I don't think a 94 F250 has a 9.75 rear end. . .thats the 7700 GVWR F150 axle in the newer trucks I believe.
Misread the sticker, cause I was looking at it upside down and thought the 9 was a 6. So its a C9 code, and I verified that its a 10.25, because it has 12 bolts... Which makes me really wonder...
Does my truck really have 3.55 gearing??? Not sure I would have put lt285 tires on it if I would have known that... Previous owner said it was 4.10 and towed a 5th wheel with it. 3.55 just doesn't make sense in this situation...
Well, my '87 F250 is 8800 GVWR (max Heavy Duty, tow package) and it has 3.55 gears stock. I run 33" tires, which is a little much for the low end but helps on the highway because I don't have an overdrive.
Thats the same GVWR that mine has (or close to it), so I guess it makes sense... Always wondered why I had to get to over 75mph to get to 2k rpm in 4th gear...
If there's a tag on the axle it should tell you what your ratio is, or at least what it was at the factory. The tag would be on one of the cover bolts and near the bolt head it will say 3L55 for a 3.55 L/S. If it's 4.10's it will be 4L10, if it's open the L will be replaced by an open space.
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