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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 04:21 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bigtimebubba
How many miles are on the truck? and what part of Utah are you in. I might know somebody that can take a look at it for you

I'm in Clinton, Utah. I'm not sure if your familiar with Utah or not but, I'm close to Ogden (If that helps). It has 76,000 on it.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 04:46 PM
  #32  
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I've been in utah for almost 5 years now(utah county). I remember there is a good indy diesel shop in Hooper(or right around there) I just can't remeber the name right now. Let me think of it, If you do take it in, you can probably get in there a lot sooner than the ogden dealership, if that's where you take it
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 05:31 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by bigtimebubba
I've been in utah for almost 5 years now(utah county). I remember there is a good indy diesel shop in Hooper(or right around there) I just can't remeber the name right now. Let me think of it, If you do take it in, you can probably get in there a lot sooner than the ogden dealership, if that's where you take it
That would be great! I did check the cranking volts and they stayed well over 10.5. They never went below 11.0.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:14 PM
  #34  
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After seeeing that the crank volts were actually o.k. I unpluged the ICP again to try and get it to start. No go? Tomarrow I plan to go get the CPS from the dealer and install it just to rule it out and try to check the 9 pin connection as mentioned in thread #7. clintbonnie gave me some specific instructions and pics on their gallery to be able rule that out (thank you BTW).
If anyone has any other ideas of things to check....I'm open for suggestions and I'm willing to try anything first before towing it somewhere.....
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 11:37 PM
  #35  
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You might also check the main large wire harness that goes over the driver's side valve cover.. Read several posts where due to rubbing, this shorts out on cover.. Take a mirror and look carefully under the harness for rubbing and possible loss of wire insulation..
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 10:34 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by clintbonnie
You might also check the main large wire harness that goes over the driver's side valve cover.. Read several posts where due to rubbing, this shorts out on cover.. Take a mirror and look carefully under the harness for rubbing and possible loss of wire insulation..
Are both passengers side and drivers side 9 pin connections know to come apart? Also, I read another topic on here that Ford sells a part to fix the connection if it has come loose or is it just as easy to make your own? I think you said you fixed your own.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 11:59 AM
  #37  
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Originally Posted by jstblwnsmk
Are both passengers side and drivers side 9 pin connections know to come apart? Also, I read another topic on here that Ford sells a part to fix the connection if it has come loose or is it just as easy to make your own? I think you said you fixed your own.
Yes, they are exactly the same connector on each side.. and yes both of mine were loose, but driver's side was more loose causing SES light, rough and missing running, along with a fault code of P1316. Yes, Ford will sell you a plastic clip to go over the existing connector, but all you need is a shim (or one guy modified a quarter coin) and slip it behind the plastic locking tabs of the connector.. this prevents the tabs from unlocking the connector due to warping from the heat and oil. See my gallery for the metal shim I made to fix the problem.. or modify a quarter coin, it is the correct thickness for the job..(about a 1/16"). I only had about 73K on the engine when my connectors separated.. For peace of mind, i would check them. You would want a problem on the road while on vacation..
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 05:46 PM
  #38  
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YOU GUYS DID IT! It was the nine pin connection under the drivers side valve cover. It looked just like your pin connection in your gallery (clintbonnie). I made a shim out of the card board material you get to make gaskets with. It worked really good it took two peices stacked together to make it tight enough. I used it instead of any metal material in case it ever worked it's way loose. I can't begin to tell you ALL how much I appreciate your expertise and pateince with me. You all saved me A LOT of money and having to take it to the dealer or broke down out of town, now I just have to do the other side. If you all were close I would be buying the beer! Thanks again and hopefully my topic will save someone else from this headache also, I have learned a ton in the past few days from ALL of you!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 05:51 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jstblwnsmk
YOU GUYS DID IT! It was the nine pin connection under the drivers side valve cover. It looked just like your pin connection in your gallery (clintbonnie). I made a shim out of the card board material you get to make gaskets with. It worked really good it took two peices stacked together to make it tight enough. I used it instead of any metal material in case it ever worked it's way loose. I can't begin to tell you ALL how much I appreciate your expertise and pateince with me. You all saved me A LOT of money and having to take it to the dealer or broke down out of town, now I just have to do the other side. If you all were close I would be buying the beer! Thanks again and hopefully my topic will save someone else from this headache also, I have learned a ton in the past few days from ALL of you!
Good to hear, That Clint is smart guy. Be sure and leave him some rep points. I will when I get some spreading done.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 08:58 PM
  #40  
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Hey that is GREAT NEWS..!! I love it when a plan comes together... We here on the forum enjoy helping our fellow PSD owners. Now would be a great time to think about becoming a "supporter"..
I often think about the thousands of 7.3's with loose connectors under the valve covers.. just waiting to separate.. That really the only problem I have ever encountered with mine over the last 9 years..
 
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