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Won't start!!

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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 04:33 PM
  #16  
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zx250
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Originally Posted by RocketScience
Hahaha.......touch'e.

Fact is, IT'S THE VERY FIRST thing you should check....always!
Why, your thread never came to mind when I said that.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 04:45 PM
  #17  
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Ok, let's recap. You have fuel, fuel filter good, oil good, ICP trick did not help, batteries charged. Need to check you cranking voltage, must be above 10.5 volts while cranking or it's not going to start. Need to check all your connections for tightness. Check the little tin nut on the back of the IPR for tightness. Check these if you haven't already and let us know.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 05:56 PM
  #18  
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O.K. I checked all connections I could see (I also wiggled the 9 pin connectors on the valve covers) and checked the cranking volts and the tin nut for tightness. Everything looked alright. While I had the key on I did hear a fast clicking sound coming from the ? I'm not sure what to call it but will see if I can describe it.....It is black and is attached to the two intake tubes where they connect together on top of the engine behind the fuel filter bowl. It has a green electrical connector attached to it and another connector that has a green tube and a red tube. I'm not sure what it is or what it does but, like I said it was making a fast clicking sound when the key was on. I also wanted to say that when I do crank it over it sounds like it REALLY wants to start. Just thought ANY/ALL info might help whether it is significant or not I don't know.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 06:02 PM
  #19  
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Are you getting any smoke while trying to start?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 07:23 PM
  #20  
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One more thing you could check that is easy.. that is your fuel shut off switch inside the pass. side kick panel..
 
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 08:32 PM
  #21  
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There is a little smoke coming out of the tail pipe not much. I also had someone crank it while I watched under the hood and there was some smoke that came out back by where the dipstick is for the transmission?
I also checked the fuel shut off and it was depressed or down position.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 08:56 PM
  #22  
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The smoke under the hood don't sound right. Don't crank more than about 20 seconds at a time before you let it cool off for a few minutes. Did you check your cranking voltage?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 09:44 PM
  #23  
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I need to check the cranking volts again tomorrow. I can't remember the exact number and I wan't to give you the right numbers instead of just saying that there o.k. I don't crank on it very long at all (way below 20 sec). I mentioned seeing the smoke because it didn't seem normal to me either but, being pretty new to diesel engines I figured it wasn't common? I did pick up a CPS today just to try (and to have a spare as mentioned in thread #6) I thought of trying it tomorrow just to cross something else off the list......man this is frustrating but I REALLY do appreciate all the help!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 09:55 PM
  #24  
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Did you ever try unplugging the ICP and seeing if that would allow it to crank?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:01 PM
  #25  
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I did but, like you said if I don't have the correct volts it probably won't start anyway. So, I'm going to check the cranking volts again today after the batteries have had a chance to charge overnight. If they are at least 10.5 I will try unplugging the ICP and try to start it. Is it able to start with this (ICP) unplugged?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:04 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jstblwnsmk
I did but, like you said if I don't have the correct volts it probably won't start anyway. So, I'm going to check the cranking volts again today after the batteries have had a chance to charge overnight. If they are at least 10.5 I will try unplugging the ICP and try to start it. Is it able to start with this (ICP) unplugged?
Yes, it should start with ICP unplugged. Driveable but it goes into a kind of "limp home mode".
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:13 PM
  #27  
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That is funny you say that because, that is how I got it home is in the sputtering/loss of power limp home. So, does that tell me the ICP is bad when it "will start" with it unplugged? I only ask because I'm on the way to the parts store for a better volt meter and I'm wondering if I should pick up an ICP?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 02:50 PM
  #28  
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When you exhausted all the possibilities, You should check under the valve covers.. as mentioned in my #7 post.. will not cost you any money, just labor.. the valve cover gaskets are reuseable.. But, again prior to pulling them, you can do a ohm check the connector on TOP of the cover to verify that is in fact a problem under the covers.. A check of your fault codes will also tell you what is going on..
Let us know what you find..
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 03:48 PM
  #29  
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How many miles are on the truck? and what part of Utah are you in. I might know somebody that can take a look at it for you
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 04:16 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jstblwnsmk
That is funny you say that because, that is how I got it home is in the sputtering/loss of power limp home. So, does that tell me the ICP is bad when it "will start" with it unplugged? I only ask because I'm on the way to the parts store for a better volt meter and I'm wondering if I should pick up an ICP?
Ideally, if a bad ICP was causing the "sputtering", unplugging it would stop the "sputtering". If the "sputtering" continues with ICP unplugged I would suspect something else at fault.
 
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