Won't start!!
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Joined: Mar 2008
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Won't start!!
Hello! I have a 2001 F-350 7.3L It started running bad yesterday with it spuddering and losing power and the "service engine soon" light came on as soon as it started running bad. I limped it home and tried to start it today and it will not start. I have drained the fuel bowl and there is pressure to it (not sure of how much) and no signs of water. When I crank (and it will turn over) the engine I get a reading on the tach. I have not had the cps sensor replaced yet. Anyone have any idea of where to look next? I really don't want to take it to a dealer unless I have to and, don't want to start throwing parts at it guessing! Thanks
Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
Likes: 4
From: Grand Lake, La.
Welcome to FTE.
If you have not had the recall on the CPS done yet, go to the dealer and get one and change it. If you don't want the dealer to change it. It is cheap and you never know if that is the problem. With that said, have the codes read so we can have something positive to go with.
If you have not had the recall on the CPS done yet, go to the dealer and get one and change it. If you don't want the dealer to change it. It is cheap and you never know if that is the problem. With that said, have the codes read so we can have something positive to go with.
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
First thing, Check your oil level. Usually a CPS either works or not. So it will allow the engine to run or not. You do need to have the codes read, anything prior to that will be guessing. Try unplugging your ICP and see if it will crank then. Let us know.
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From what I have read so far people have been saying that if you have any RPM reading when cranking it over your CPS is o.k. Is that true? I will replace it because the dealer's "next available appointment" is three weeks out? It's funny how long it takes to get an appt when it is a recall vs paying cash....
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
I think you have a bad harness and or 9 pin connector loose under the valve cover problem.. Mine acted the same last year... You can ohm check the connector on top of the valve cover prior to removing to verfiy... This is a very common probem.. Ford redesign the connector sometime in 2002 or 2003... I fixed mine by just slipping a home shim behind the plastic locking tabs (which warp from the heat and oil)...
using a digtal ohm meter:
GGIICIIGG
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C = Injector -
Ohms between the G and block Ground should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohms between the I and C one at a time if one or more is > 5 ohms, it will point to the side's gasket connector or UVC harness being shorted or not making connection.
You can get a ohm meter for less than $20.. good investment.. See My Gallery for pic's of a loose connector and home made repair shim...
using a digtal ohm meter:
GGIICIIGG
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C = Injector -
Ohms between the G and block Ground should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohms between the I and C one at a time if one or more is > 5 ohms, it will point to the side's gasket connector or UVC harness being shorted or not making connection.
You can get a ohm meter for less than $20.. good investment.. See My Gallery for pic's of a loose connector and home made repair shim...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Welcome to FTE. Do you get any other dash lights that don't function normally? Does your wait to start light function normally? Sputtering and running bad doesn't sound like most of the CPS issues we hear about. The UVCH will cause it to run bad, but usually doesn't prevent starts.
If you include your location there may be someone that lives near by that has a scanner and can pull codes for you. You can try wiggling the 9 pin connector on the valve covers, running an ohm meter on the valve covers to check for continuity at the injectors, unplugging the ICP and checking the oil level in the HPOP reservoir. Those are all free checks. But the first thing you need to do is cover the basics. Engine oil clean and full. Air & fuel filters ok. Batteries fully charged and producing enough power. Weak batteries will turn the engine over what sounds to be fast enough, but it's not.
Let us know if you're unclear on any of these steps or specifics and we will walk you through the steps or post pictures to help you find you way around all the funny sounding parts.
If you include your location there may be someone that lives near by that has a scanner and can pull codes for you. You can try wiggling the 9 pin connector on the valve covers, running an ohm meter on the valve covers to check for continuity at the injectors, unplugging the ICP and checking the oil level in the HPOP reservoir. Those are all free checks. But the first thing you need to do is cover the basics. Engine oil clean and full. Air & fuel filters ok. Batteries fully charged and producing enough power. Weak batteries will turn the engine over what sounds to be fast enough, but it's not.
Let us know if you're unclear on any of these steps or specifics and we will walk you through the steps or post pictures to help you find you way around all the funny sounding parts.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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Thanks! I left the battery charger on it all night and borrowed a code reader from Checker to see if it will tell me something. I have of list of things to check now and I also read a thread off here that helped me learn A LOT (emergency help needed). You all are great! Yesterday I was debating on towing it to the dealer but, decided to look here first....glad I did! I will let you know what I find after checking all of your suggestions. Thanks again!
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O.K. so, I'm going to ask a stupid question.....Do I check the oil level on the HPOP through the set screw on top of it? Do I add normal "engine oil" to it if it is low? If I read correctly on other threads it is supposed to be 3/4" from the top? BTW you were correct the code reader wouldn't work. Would it have anything to do with the chip system (EDGE EVOLUTION) I have on the truck? I pulled it (chip) off and returned everything to stock before checking with the reader.
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
I doubt the edge has anything to do with it unless you cleared the codes when you removed the program. The HPOP oil level should be 3/4 to 1" below the top and it is checked through the set screw on top. You can add oil if needed, but that is a temp. fix. It uses the same oil as the rest of the engine and it pump out of the oil pan and into the HPOP resevoir using the Low pressure pump. If it is too low, then you have a problem with a check valve or worse. It should not leak down.
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The level in the HPOP was fine. However the normal engine oil check (dipstick) said it was about 2qts low? I find that weird because I have seen nothing leaking. I added to it and unplugged the ICP and still no start. My next opions were going to be checking the 9 pin conections as mention in #7&8 and to replace the CPS. Will it still start and run if there is a bad connection on the 9 pin harness or the CPS is bad?
What kind of scanner/code reader would work for me?
What kind of scanner/code reader would work for me?
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Actually it was the first thing I checked but, thought I would throw it in there to give all that are helping more of an idea of what I have and haven't done. Thanks for the important fact though....