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I have a 98 Ranger with a 3.0 and has 247,000 miles. For about the past year, it has been chirping when at a cold idle. The chirp seems to be in the back of the engine and goes away as soon as the engine warms up. For about the same amount of time, the truck hasn't started well. It takes a few tries before it will catch and then runs rough for the first few seconds. Yesterday it was noticeably worse as it was a constant squeal instead of a chirp but it did go away within a few minutes. I did a search and found that these symptoms indiacate a bad camshaft synchronizer shaft. I also found that this part also drives the oil pump so I don't want to take any chances. Does anyone know if its a big job to replace a camshaft synchronizer shaft? Thanks!
Not an overly difficult job to do, just not easy due to the limited space to work in.
Since this item drives the oil pump, it is rather important to get it changed as soon as possible. If you are not confident in your skills enough to attempt doing the repair, take it to a shop and have them do it. It will cost more to have it done at a shop, but should the replacement unit fail, the shop has to eat the labor to replace it the 2nd time around, so long as you let them provide the part. If you take the part in, and it later fails, you have to pay the labor again even if the part is still covered under warrentty.
Dan, since you like to turn your own wrenches, be sure to visit the forums "Tech Info" page, as there are threads with good wrench turning info there, like this one Rockledge put together just for the 3.0L. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-and-tips.html
There is another multi-page thread link you'll find there with details on changing just the 3.0L cam sync assy, that you'll likely find some useful info in prepairing for the task. So consider reviewing it along with the video link SirArgus posted above, for additional tips before changing your assy out & let us know how it goes.
Maybe consider pre-lube its bearings & gear with motor oil before installing, so it doesn't have to wait for splash, or oil misting to lube it when its first run in.
The design of the drive assy bearings are kinda hidden & have a hard time being properly splash or mist lubed, so they wear out prematurely & begin to chirp, then squeel just before seizing, which is where you are now!!!!
You are right, if the drive bearing seizes, it can cause the drive gear threads to shear & the oil pump to stop working & that can be fatal to the engine if it isn't shut down quick enough, so your right to be concerned about it & get this assy replaced without further delay before that happens!!!!
Motorcraft parts are recommended as the video suggests, Dorman aren't, as numerous Ford forums around the Net have reported problems with them!!!! So don't be tempted to cheap out on these parts, opt for quality.
More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on how it goes.
Thank you folks. My Ranger is inside my garage and I will be leaving it there and driving my Escape until I get the parts, probably next week end. I agree with going to a dealer for the new shaft but I would assume that dealers parts don't come with the alignment tool. Maybe the local parts store sells the tool separately. Thanks again and I will let you folks know how it all works out.
Good idea to park it until fixed imo. Most autoparts stores have the alignment fixture for a refundable deposit in their "Loan-A-Tool" program. Other marking tips & alignment info in the threads & video, suggest with careful marking of the tang & noting the rotational location when removing the old assy & reinstalling the replacement part in the exact same location & not letting the crank/cam move while doing it, the repair can be done without the aglinment tool.
EDIT: Check out site sponsors pricing on the cam sensor & sync assy!!!!
Dan, my son and I replaced the cam synchronizer in his Taurus 3.0 Vulcan last spring. It went smoothly though I had never done this job and am just a weekend mechanic. We made marks with chalk before removing it. We also took digital pictures and loaded them on a laptop on my workbench beforehand such was our anxiety that we would screw up. I recall there are 14 teeth on the gear and we were able to replace it by hand to the exact position just by looking at the photos we took. Pictures also help in putting back the stuff you have to remove.
Update: Got the job done in about an hour and, as Willie would say, "I'm on the road again". We put the alignment tool on the new shaft to index it. We then turned my engine over by hand (with the sensor removed) until my old synchronizer shaft was in the same exact same position as the new one. We put the alignment tool on the old shaft and made a mark on the firewall to line things up by before taking the old shaft out. The new one went it but we had to rock the crankshaft back and forth just a little to get the oil pump shaft to line up. It then fell into place. I sure was on borrowed time with the old shaft. I wouldn't have run it that long had I known what was wrong and and that the synchronizer also drives the oil pump. I still think that Ford should have designed it so that the engine wont run if that shaft isn't turning. Thanks for the pointers and I hope this thread helps someone else.
OK, good feedback & to hear all went well. Sounds like you were on borrowed time, but beat the clock this time. Nice Thanksgiving present wasn't it!!!!
Good job on the video, and I'll probably use it when I finally do mine--replaced the cam-sync on wife's 2002 Taurus/Vulcan the same way about 3 years ago. So........my rant is that "righty-tight---lefty loosey"---I'm old school and it's "clock-wise---counter-clock wise". If you start at the bottom of the clock at '6', then "righty-tighty" could be mis-construed, and you could be wrenching the wrong way.