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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 11:38 AM
  #76  
71-4R3SONS's Avatar
71-4R3SONS
More Turbo
20 Year Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 634
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From: Southern Tier New York
Originally Posted by MarkMoore
Make sure you have a good breaker bar - it takes leverage and a strong arm to break those bolts loose. They should (at least my 01 were) be a 15/16th socket. If you don't have a good/strong/forged one, I'd go get one.
I don't need no stinkin breaker bar... You've seen my Avatar?



(I got air baby... and real good air tools too!!!)

Plus the underside of my 05 is pretty corosion free. Thanks for the advice!!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 12:57 PM
  #77  
MarkMoore's Avatar
MarkMoore
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: High Point, NC
Originally Posted by 71-4R3SONS
I don't need no stinkin breaker bar... You've seen my Avatar?



(I got air baby... and real good air tools too!!!)

Plus the underside of my 05 is pretty corosion free. Thanks for the advice!!
You lucky dog! I wish I had Air Tools! you aint gotta rub in ya know!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 02:14 PM
  #78  
dsquared's Avatar
dsquared
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Ontario, CA
Definitely red is strongest; also pretty darn hard to remove if/when you want to! I used to use #242 (blue) on pneumatic nailer piston/driver blade assemblies. It was still difficult to remove after someone broke a blade, but not so hard as the red! If someone had used red, we generally ended up stripping the piston trying to remove. Clean area with wire brush (if you have to remove rust) and wipe it down with acetone before applying the Loctite.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 06:22 PM
  #79  
X-70STANG-F150's Avatar
X-70STANG-F150
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 451
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From: sw mich
I just finished the install. There is a nice improvement unloaded. There is still more body roll than i would like, but it feels like it is in the front now. there is a definite improvement in control, as wheel hop seems to be eliminated. i'm pretty happy with it.

It did raise my rear end about an 1-1/2" though. I forgot to take measurements before I started, but i did measure it unloaded in May. I measured 36" F and 36-1/2" R then. When I took it off the jack i noticed the new rake right away. It now measures 35-7/8"F and 37-3/4" R. I thought I originally had that kind of rake in the truck, and had lost it after towing the newer heavier trailer, but couldn't prove it. I think maybe I wore the springs down a bit.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 07:50 PM
  #80  
wylecoyote's Avatar
wylecoyote
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20 Year Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 568
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From: Henniker
I am still waiting to hear form Mark Moore on his towing experience, I am on the fence with the ras, one thing is for sure if I get anymore lift in the rear I am going to look into adding a leaf for the front to get that up a little. I have a helwig on the way, Looking in to new shocks, and installing warn hubs. I mainly use the ex for towing my 32 ft tt. I am definatly looking to eliminate the sway I get right now. Great thread, I am definatly waiting, Thanks to all for posting your results.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 10:02 AM
  #81  
X-70STANG-F150's Avatar
X-70STANG-F150
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 451
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From: sw mich
Well, I thought I'd post some installation notes.
1st - I couldn't see why the axle needed to be supported to remove the u-bolts and add the axle bracket. With the axle fully supported, the u-bolts end up behind the inner fender. I couldn't get to them with a socket and breaker-bar. It was much easier with the axle about 1/2 supported.
2nd - I didn't have the short u-bolt issue some reported with barely having enough threads. I had a good 1/2" threads showing. mine measured 9-1/2" long. it is important to make sure that u-bolts are tightened evenly, so that the axle-bracket is sandwiched properly with the upper spring plate.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 10:29 PM
  #82  
ocboat's Avatar
ocboat
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 242
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From: Oregon
Since I received such great advice at the beginning of ths thread, I thought I would share my first towing experience since the RAS install. I have an '04 X 6.0 PSD with 100,000 miles which is completely stock, original springs, original shocks and no rear sway bar. Before the RAS, I did not have the severe wander problems that some are experiencing but I did have a large amount of rear end drop when lowering my 7,500 lb travel trailer. I just recently completed a 500 mile round trip to the northern Oregon coast which consisted of hilly winding roads in the worst spring weather (even snow) that I can ever remember. I was very happy with the overall towing experience. I did not experience any sway and was able to one hand it most of the time with the cruise set at 55. Only one time when making a sweeping left hand turn did I feel like the trailer was driving the X but I never experienced that again. At this point, I don't feel that adding the rear sway bar is absolutely necessary, but I may add it just for increased confidence although I will probably get new shocks first. I would not hesitate to take it back out again set up just the way it is.

My only complaint is that I only averaged 9.5 MPG on the trip but was expecting better.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 08:47 AM
  #83  
kcinmd's Avatar
kcinmd
New User
Joined: Feb 2008
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Great Price on Roadmaster

I just bought a set. The Ebayer just put a bunch more in his store: eBay Seller: uss01: Parts Accessories, NEW KIA SORENTO BONTEC T009 REMOTE items on eBay Motors
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 07:29 AM
  #84  
shadows4's Avatar
shadows4
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 462
Likes: 5
From: Kansas City, Mo
Got the RAS installed yesterday. Took about 31/2 hrs but I had several interuptions. Also learned I'm not as young as I used to be. In fact I',m getting old and fat! Didn't get to drive the truck very far but I could tell the body lean was so much better! Can't wait to tow TT with it. John
P.S. The RAS raised the rear of the X 1 1/2 inches if anyone wants to know.
 
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