Roadmaster Active Suspension Users
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 242
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From: Oregon
Roadmaster Active Suspension Users
I just purchased a 2004 Excursion EB PSD which is completely stock. The first thing I did was to add the RAS system. I just hooked up my travel trailer which has a GVWR of 7,600 lbs. I have not weighed it but would expect the tounge weight to be anywhere from 650-850 lbs at the moment. The back end of the X dropped 2" with the weight of the trailer added. Is this normal with the RAS or should I increase the tension on the springs. I can fit a quarter in the gaps of the springs right now as per the directions. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 688
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From: Elk Point; Alberta
That seems to be a bit much to me. X-HEMI-GUY will breeze in here as soon as he sees your title and hes a towing guru 
but I would suggest another turn of tension. Is both the Ex and the trailer level when hooked up ??
but I would suggest another turn of tension. Is both the Ex and the trailer level when hooked up ??
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 32
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Are you using a weight distribution hitch? I am no expert because I have never towed with my Excursion (I am preparing to), but I think a properly set up WD hitch will transfer more weight to the front axle, and trailer axles. In some cases I understand the front and rear of the tow vehicle can drop equal amounts when a hitch is set up properly. It sounds like a large load is being placed on your rear axle if it is being pulled down 2".
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Oregon
Yes, I am using a WD hitch with the dual cam sway control and like I said, The GVWR of the trailer is only 7,600 lbs and the kitchen is over the axles so I'm sure the tongue is not over 900 lbs. The end does come back up a little when I engage the spring bars but it's the 2" drop when the trailer is first lowered that I'm concerned about. I'll just increase the tension in the RAS a little to see if that helps although on my test run the trailer towed just fine with no sway and very little wander so maybe I should not worry about it.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 688
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From: Elk Point; Alberta
If it is towing nice and the rear isn't higher than the front on the Ex I wouldn't worry about it.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,237
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From: Florida
ocboat,
A question first...
You say you can fit a quarter between the springs of the RAS...I assume you adjusted the RAS with the rear axle HANGING in an unsupported fashion (i.e. supporting the FRAME of the Ex). that is how to properly adjust the pre-tension...is that how you did it?
joe.
A question first...
You say you can fit a quarter between the springs of the RAS...I assume you adjusted the RAS with the rear axle HANGING in an unsupported fashion (i.e. supporting the FRAME of the Ex). that is how to properly adjust the pre-tension...is that how you did it?
joe.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Oregon
I had the shop where I purchased the kit install it for me. He had the truck on a lift and had some stands supporting the axle so it was not hanging (at least not full drop) when he adjusted the springs. I can fit a quarter in the springs now with all four wheels on the ground.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,237
Likes: 22
From: Florida
Based on your last post...it sounds like the shop did NOT pre-load the RAS PROPERLY.
You need to jack up the Ex by the FRAME and let the axle hang completely. This puts the leaf springs in their bowed state. It is in THIS configuration that the RAS spring must have a quarter between the coils.
I'd start with that step first...because I believe you are not pre-loaded properly and the RAS is NOT kicking in as it is supposed to.
This step is not very hard...just jack up the frame and put a jack stand under the frame on each side. You may have to remove both rear wheels if you don't have a really TALL jack as the rear axle hangs LOW when not supported...but this step is CRITICAL to proper pre-load.
Of course...since you had a shop install it...
You could simply bring it back to them and make them do it RIGHT this time!
Give the proper pre-loading step a try first before doing anything else would be my advice.
Good luck and let us know where you stand when you do it.
joe.
You need to jack up the Ex by the FRAME and let the axle hang completely. This puts the leaf springs in their bowed state. It is in THIS configuration that the RAS spring must have a quarter between the coils.
I'd start with that step first...because I believe you are not pre-loaded properly and the RAS is NOT kicking in as it is supposed to.
This step is not very hard...just jack up the frame and put a jack stand under the frame on each side. You may have to remove both rear wheels if you don't have a really TALL jack as the rear axle hangs LOW when not supported...but this step is CRITICAL to proper pre-load.
Of course...since you had a shop install it...
You could simply bring it back to them and make them do it RIGHT this time!
Give the proper pre-loading step a try first before doing anything else would be my advice.
Good luck and let us know where you stand when you do it.
joe.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 242
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From: Oregon
I'll be taking it back to the shop tomorrow for proper adjustment and let you know the results.
I also have been reading that the old U bolts should not be re-used but the RAS did not come with new bolts. Should I be concerned about this and should I be ordering new bolts? Thanks for the help.
I also have been reading that the old U bolts should not be re-used but the RAS did not come with new bolts. Should I be concerned about this and should I be ordering new bolts? Thanks for the help.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 688
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From: Elk Point; Alberta
If you go to www.roadmasterok.com/videos.htm and look by the heading Crank and Chrome TV Installation you can watch a video on how to install the system properly; may help for tomorrows trip back to the shop.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Oregon
This guy is an authorized retailer and installer of the RAS and has performed hundreds of installs, apparently all wrong. The mistake he made was not removing the stands to let the axle drop so the springs are not pre-loaded correctly. It may not be worth the cost of diesel to take it back and I will probably just do it myself.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,237
Likes: 22
From: Florida
For a point of reference...
Here's when I installed my RAS.
This shot is of the axle SUPPORTED...notice there is no arch in the LEAF springs
And here is when I pre-loaded the RAS by letting the axle HANG...notice the arch in the LEAF springs
If you notice the jack is NOT touching the axle and the jack stands are NOT under the axle.
I remember when I was pre-loading the RAS in THIS configuration...I cranked on that adjustment nut forEVER!!!...took a LOT of pre-load to get to that 2mm gap...
I'm really guessing that yours is NOT pre-loaded and if you do it...you should notice improvement...
The way your shop did it if the axle was not completely HANGING did not put enough initial spring rate into the RAS and it is allowing the leaf springs to flatten rather than have the proper initial RAS rate and help RESIST the leaf spring flattening...
Good luck,
joe.
Here's when I installed my RAS.
This shot is of the axle SUPPORTED...notice there is no arch in the LEAF springs
And here is when I pre-loaded the RAS by letting the axle HANG...notice the arch in the LEAF springs
If you notice the jack is NOT touching the axle and the jack stands are NOT under the axle.
I remember when I was pre-loading the RAS in THIS configuration...I cranked on that adjustment nut forEVER!!!...took a LOT of pre-load to get to that 2mm gap...
I'm really guessing that yours is NOT pre-loaded and if you do it...you should notice improvement...
The way your shop did it if the axle was not completely HANGING did not put enough initial spring rate into the RAS and it is allowing the leaf springs to flatten rather than have the proper initial RAS rate and help RESIST the leaf spring flattening...
Good luck,
joe.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 242
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From: Oregon
I decided to try to pre-load the springs correctly myself since the shop that I had it installed at originally couldn't get to it until next week. After looking at my meager supply of automotive tools I decided that I could not lift and support the entire back of the truck safely at one time so I tried to do one wheel at a time. X_Hemi, you were absolutely correct, when the wheel was dropped, the RAS spring was not stretched at all. I was able to thread the springs about 1.5" - 2" more than they were and was able to get the 2mm gap but it just was not enough with dropping only one wheel at a time. When I hooked up the trailer it again dropped 2 inches. I will be taking it back to the shop to have it done correctly although the guy did not sound pleased about doing it.