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cOOn tranny mod

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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 07:49 PM
  #46  
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No gaskets its a machine surface seal (don't nick it!!)

The 4R pan holds the same amount but does have the drain plug.

Thanks for the Kudos!
 
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 08:17 PM
  #47  
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Ok kinda what I was thinking but beed 2 years sines I've rebuilt or done anyting but a service or swap on an auto pluss the ones I rebuilt were thouse late 80s to mid 90s dodge trans axles. Thanks probly just add a plug to the E4OD pan then.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 02:39 AM
  #48  
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I know the 4r100 is a similar tranny to the e40d but will this mod work the same in a 4r100?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 07:19 AM
  #49  
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yes, exactly the same
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 05:48 PM
  #50  
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BACK FROM THE DEAD! : ) Just to bring up an old topic I had a quick question.

I noticed you said the holes were drilled at an angle. It looks like in the pic on page 1 that you drilled the holes from the inside towards the outside correct? It looks like if you drilled them from the outside towards the middle it would allow you to drill the holes at less of an angle. Therefore giving a little more of a straight shot. Do you think that would benefit at all or does it not matter??

Thanks!
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 06:44 PM
  #51  
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those dimples are cast into the body. i drilled as you are speaking. it makes sense when it is in your lap
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:18 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
i drilled as you are speaking. it makes sense when it is in your lap
So which way? He said two different things.
Drill from inside going out, or from the outside pointing in?

And if there are no holes there to begin with, how in the world do you get the bit started on an angle like that?

Excellent mod, BTW...
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:34 PM
  #53  
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it is really easy i did that in my tranny but went one size bigger, let me tell ya i got some really nice shfts
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 08:59 PM
  #54  
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drill it the way i am holding it in this picture. its easy to start the hole with a good sharp bit and VERY light pressure. its only aluminum.
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 09:08 PM
  #55  
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OKay that makes sense now!! I saw those dimples and thought they were from the drilling. So, just for curiousity sake... what is the purpose of those dimples that are already there?? And I assume those are good reference points to make the hole in line with?

Thanks! Might try on mine this weekend... my shifts SUCK!!!
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 09:19 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by YZGUYONE25
OKay that makes sense now!! I saw those dimples and thought they were from the drilling. So, just for curiousity sake... what is the purpose of those dimples that are already there?? And I assume those are good reference points to make the hole in line with?

Thanks! Might try on mine this weekend... my shifts SUCK!!!
do it! you will not regret it and it is so easy
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #57  
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dont recall what the dimples are for. but they make excellent templetes for your drill bit. be extra careful to not push too hard otherwise you will bend your 1/16 bit and egg te hole out. then your neck will hurt after each shift.
 
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Old May 12, 2009 | 06:34 AM
  #58  
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AH, I see. You come in from the large chamber, gives you a lower drilling angle. I have a truck I will be doing this on in a few weeks.

I guess the only downside to this is that you'll actually 'ruin' the whole valve body if you mess it up. Whereas the other kits don't mess with the actual vb. Wonder what a VB core goes for these days...
 
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Old May 12, 2009 | 09:18 AM
  #59  
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You might be able to tap it and put in a small cap plug or screw with lock tight. Maybe even chance it and use the magical JB Weld.
 
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Old May 12, 2009 | 10:02 AM
  #60  
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Hey, great idea. If you can drill it, you should be able to run a tap in it.
 
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