Cab Mounts:
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 969
Likes: 71
From: Cherryville,N.C.
Cab Mounts:
Can I change the cab mounts on my 1952 F-1 without taking a lot of things loose or off?What is the best way to go at this?My passenger door does not seem to line up very good when you shut it.Does this maybe have something to do with worn cab mounts?
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,734
Likes: 2
From: Kansas City area
I would guess the misalignment on the doors is due to worn hinge pins more than cab mounts so check both. You should be able to change the mounts without taking anything off other than the worn out items at the connection points unless I'm missing something in what you are asking. Get a shop manual for the 52 if you don't have one.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Which cab mounts, front, middle, or rear? The rears are a snap, just jack up the cab a little on the rear cab crossmember. The front ones you have to be a little more careful jacking because you are trying to lift the inner fenders and front fenders, too.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
Likes: 165
From: Harpswell Maine
If you are looking to install in one piece the complete cab corner available from several of the venders imho I would say not without having the cab off the frame. I replaced both of my front corners plus floors. If I remember correctly it was easier to replace the cab corner and portions of the floor together. If the cab corner is bad at least part of the floor, that which is sandwiched under the cab corner, is most likely bad also. I am sure that some fabricated non original fix of the cab corners could be done but if you want it pretty much original using the cab corners being sold I think you will want the cab off the frame.Maybe somebody else will chime in that has done it with the cab mostly in position on the frame.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,734
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From: Kansas City area
Me thinks I don't understand the question here. Is the question regarding the replacement of sheetmetal and anchor point or just the fasteners/rubber mounts, etc. at these points? If the sheetmetal, then disregard my previous comment because you will have to do more than I stated.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,292
Likes: 8
From: sparta ky.
if it's the rubber mounts that are bad or your changing cab mounts as i did and need new rubber, i used the rubber rollers off a boat trailer, you can take a chop saw and cut the rubber to the lenght you need for each mount even if not the same, that way you can get the cab level by adding or subtracting thickness of rubber of mount, maybe i did't understand question, but a little trick i used when changing mounts.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
Likes: 165
From: Harpswell Maine
Originally Posted by 49willard
If you are looking to install in one piece the complete cab corner available from several of the venders imho I would say not without having the cab off the frame. I replaced both of my front corners plus floors. If I remember correctly it was easier to replace the cab corner and portions of the floor together. If the cab corner is bad at least part of the floor, that which is sandwiched under the cab corner, is most likely bad also. I am sure that some fabricated non original fix of the cab corners could be done but if you want it pretty much original using the cab corners being sold I think you will want the cab off the frame.Maybe somebody else will chime in that has done it with the cab mostly in position on the frame.
EDIT
I think that I jumped to the conclusion that the front steel cab corners were bad i. e. rusty. My mistake.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 969
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From: Cherryville,N.C.
The sheet metal is good.I just want to replace the rubber pads in front and dog bone parts in rear.
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