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Correct. you can get all those and not have any conflicts between them. Also here is something you might want to consider as well. I don't understand it full but I think I am gonna give it a try. It takes the place of a shift kit or valve body from what I understand so far. http://www.eseliminator.com/index.html
Tj is correct.
This is another route to take when building your VB.
It will eliminate any/all EPC issues.
thats a shift point issue, a chip can address that (I think). I use my right foot to decide what gear to put it in. But that kickdown shift is sweet with The Cure I can tell you that! If I want to blow smoke I roll into it. If I want to kick it down and blow their doors off I mat it!
All you need to do is run a test with your manual TC lock switch.
Also the cure site has a test you can run to see the differance in the shiftpoint. Try the test also.
All you need to do is run a test with your manual TC lock switch.
Also the cure site has a test you can run to see the differance in the shiftpoint. Try the test also.
Bill
A little help here ..this ,is the test :
Get on the Interstate and accelerate, notice and feel your overdrive shift point.
Then manually over-ride/cancel the over-drive; repeat the process of acceleration then once over 50 MPH engage the overdrive, notice and feel the shift point again, you will see that it will not have the "Shift Flair" problem.
ya, i know about that. but my tc is good. my trans is good. it pulls like no tomarr. well, actually tomarrow its gonna have a load. like 20k ish. shifts are good even then. as in good i mean no slippage in the clutches, and no tc shutter.
Get on the Interstate and accelerate, notice and feel your overdrive shift point.
Then manually over-ride/cancel the over-drive; repeat the process of acceleration then once over 50 MPH engage the overdrive, notice and feel the shift point again, you will see that it will not have the "Shift Flair" problem.
[QUOTE=tjbeggs]Correct. you can get all those and not have any conflicts between them. Also here is something you might want to consider as well. I don't understand it full but I think I am gonna give it a try. It takes the place of a shift kit or valve body from what I understand so far. http://www.eseliminator.com/index.html[/QUOTE]
tj, that is a bundle of different shift improvers all in one price.
the 3 springs side by side replace the ones in the accumulaotr body. those 3 are going to be stiffer than the stock ones making line pressure build before it opens and shifts to make it firmer.
the 3 different colored ***** are to replace the check valve for the epc, they have 3 different sized holes do allow different levels of fluid to bypass the valve and aid in raising pressure.
the solonoid\resistor is to take the pcm out of the epc circuit altogether and raise the pressure to a set level, no more pressure changes with throttle. it will be one set pressure.
the last piece of the puzzle is the fames pump mod, changes the pumps output pressure
ya, i know about that. but my tc is good. my trans is good. it pulls like no tomarr. well, actually tomarrow its gonna have a load. like 20k ish. shifts are good even then. as in good i mean no slippage in the clutches, and no tc shutter.
2stroke
The control will reduce heat and slippage while at TC shiftpoints.
It put the power to the ground much faster with the reduced slippage.
You can see it in your boost gauge and seat of the pants ride. Your turbo will stay spooled.
Correct. you can get all those and not have any conflicts between them. Also here is something you might want to consider as well. I don't understand it full but I think I am gonna give it a try. It takes the place of a shift kit or valve body from what I understand so far. http://www.eseliminator.com/index.html
tj, that is a bundle of different shift improvers all in one price.
the 3 springs side by side replace the ones in the accumulaotr body. those 3 are going to be stiffer than the stock ones making line pressure build before it opens and shifts to make it firmer.
the 3 different colored ***** are to replace the check valve for the epc, they have 3 different sized holes do allow different levels of fluid to bypass the valve and aid in raising pressure.
the solonoid\resistor is to take the pcm out of the epc circuit altogether and raise the pressure to a set level, no more pressure changes with throttle. it will be one set pressure.
the last piece of the puzzle is the fames pump mod, changes the pumps output pressure
Thanks Joe. That pretty much what I have figured out. Decided it mainly a sonnax spring kit with EPC eliminator. Price is right and sounds like a great theory! Gonna give it a go soon.
Correct. you can get all those and not have any conflicts between them. Also here is something you might want to consider as well. I don't understand it full but I think I am gonna give it a try. It takes the place of a shift kit or valve body from what I understand so far. http://www.eseliminator.com/index.html[/QUOTE]
tj, that is a bundle of different shift improvers all in one price.
the 3 springs side by side replace the ones in the accumulaotr body. those 3 are going to be stiffer than the stock ones making line pressure build before it opens and shifts to make it firmer.
the 3 different colored ***** are to replace the check valve for the epc, they have 3 different sized holes do allow different levels of fluid to bypass the valve and aid in raising pressure.
the solonoid\resistor is to take the pcm out of the epc circuit altogether and raise the pressure to a set level, no more pressure changes with throttle. it will be one set pressure.
the last piece of the puzzle is the fames pump mod, changes the pumps output pressure
c00n
It takes the EPC out of the picture.
Ask yourself this. What is the EPC's job? and why?
The EPC is a problem when using tuners that change shiftpoints.
The pump becomes RPM related to line pressure.
Higher RPM= higher line. They rise together.
ESE works great! It actually induces leaks from the VB to lower pressure at low rpm.
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