New 6.0L owners - tips to prevent comon problems

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Dec 20, 2010 | 09:07 PM

#61

jfb613

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Thanks much for all the info - great thread. 'Specially for those of us new to 6.0 problems. Mine went 90K without a blink. Now getting some injector noise and lost EGR valve last week. Unplugged the EGR and got the engine back, but I see a lot of mods needing done here soon.

Well done on the tech info. Saved me a gob of research!

Jan 11, 2011 | 09:10 PM

#62

bismic

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Just wanted to add the link below to this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ew-owners.html

Jan 11, 2011 | 10:04 PM

#63

bens170

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Joined: Mar 2010

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From: So. Cal. 4,000 ft elev.,

To Bismic,
Again thank you for the great job on the information for the 6.0L PSTD engine.
Ben
06 SD,CC,4x4, XLT,Dually, 6.0L PSTD, 5spd auto.,4.10 gears, Fox Racing Shocks, ProComp suspension ladder bars, Raised 6", Skyjacker brake lines, AFE Cold Air Intake,
MKW wheels, ProComp Xtreme A/T 37/13.50/17, & FMS exhaust system.

Jan 26, 2011 | 07:00 PM

#64

offshorefisher

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From: Lutz

Thank you so much for this info. I know it took some time to put together. Thank you.

Feb 9, 2011 | 01:49 PM

#65

bismic

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Here is a good summary thread for reference material:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ew-owners.html

Recommended readings:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-pressure.html

Mar 27, 2011 | 08:37 PM

#66

bismic

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bump again for the newcomers

Mar 28, 2011 | 10:35 PM

#67

cbebuck

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Joined: Dec 2007

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From: princeton, in

just got my 6.0 tonight... cant wait to dig into this thread..

Nov 22, 2011 | 08:49 PM

#68

foevrluvinit

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I've had my 6.0L for a few years now but starting to get into these threads. My head is spinning like the others! Lots of info.

Nov 22, 2011 | 08:58 PM

#69

dc3655

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Joined: Jun 2005

Posts: 710

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From: Fallon,NV

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forevrluvinit

I've had my 6.0L for a few years now but starting to get into these threads. My head is spinning like the others! Lots of info.

Whatever you do, don't let these threads and negativity get you down. I've had my 6L for 6.5 years now and am nearing 100k miles and I've got to say that this truck is actually getting better as it gets older....both in power and economy. I just bought a 2005 diesel Jeep Liberty and it has tons more problems than the 6L has, so I think this is just a sign of the times meaning that the EPA has officially attempted to kill diesel motors. Enjoy your 6L!

Nov 24, 2011 | 06:52 AM

#70

dannyboy1130

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Joined: Mar 2011

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From: Wausau WI

Thanks to all but in need of more help

I bought a 2005 6.0 in January 2011 and had no issues for a few months. Then the FICM crapped on me, joined this forum and found the solution and fixed the wiring issue. 2 months later started having turbo pressure issues, resorted back to this forum and learned about sticky veins. Pulled the turbo out myself with the help of a neighbor and a couple cases of beer. Only to discover they weren't that bad but cleaned it up anyways. Pulled the EGR and it was completely stuck open. Some carb cleaner and new rings she ran like new. Couple weeks later the left rear brake caliper locked up, easy fix. Roughly 3 weeks ago the truck started darting from left to right, not a wobble though. I will start with the stabilizer and go from there...? I've also noticed white smoke again when I first start it like when the FICM went bad. Could this be a bad FICM fix or possibly in need of new injectors? Also I feel it cranks too long before turning over (even on warmer days)... glow plug issue...? Lastly, i've noticed some loss in turbo pressure again so I am buying an EGR delete kit, any suggestions on brands? Any and all feed back is greatly appreciated! I'm no mechanic by any means but have learned so much with your help!! Thanks to all and Happy Thanksgiving!!

Nov 24, 2011 | 12:21 PM

#71

walkerfarms

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Joined: Aug 2005

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spinning? slow down and enjoy...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forevrluvinit

I've had my 6.0L for a few years now but starting to get into these threads. My head is spinning like the others! Lots of info.

Likewise, don't sweat it. This forum is the greatest. Likewise I am in the trucking business. We have so many issues with new diesel engines I think my 6.0L with 150,000 miles is a jem!. This forum has saved me thousands in repairing myself and alerting me to stuff ahead of time. I agree that with this forum and my increasing mechanical abilities from this forum, my truck is most definitely getting better with age!

Nov 24, 2011 | 01:07 PM

#72

bismic

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Quote:

Originally Posted by dannyboy1130

.......... I've also noticed white smoke again when I first start it like when the FICM went bad. Could this be a bad FICM fix or possibly in need of new injectors? Also I feel it cranks too long before turning over (even on warmer days)... glow plug issue...? Lastly, i've noticed some loss in turbo pressure again so I am buying an EGR delete kit, any suggestions on brands? Any and all feed back is greatly appreciated! I'm no mechanic by any means but have learned so much with your help!! Thanks to all and Happy Thanksgiving!!

One thing about 6.0L troubleshooting ...... it is frequently not simple.

I like to be sure that the simple things are taken care of first:

Was anything recently worked on or modified?
Batteries healthy and strong?
Fuel is getting to the upper fuel filter (a fuel pressure gauge is even more helpful?
Fuel filters are not past the appropriate interval (IMO 10k miles)?
Drain some fuel from the primary fuel filter at the water drain plug and inspect the quality of fuel as much as possible (ie no significant grit, sludge, water, ect).
Oil level is good (not under or over filled) and not past the oil and filter change interval (5k IMO)?
Are you using the proper diesel rated oil - one that is the proper viscosity for the appropriate ambient temperature
Make sure there are no obvious intake or exhaust leaks and all sensor connections are good.
Air filter "filter minder" show that the filter is not plugged?
Has the fuel economy recently dropped significantly?
Any DTC's (codes)?
If there is smoke and does it have a smell or color?
Any evidence of coolant loss or white staining around the degas bottle?
If rough running (especially when cold), get the FICM voltage w/ KOEO, cranking, and at 2000 rpms.
Check electrical harnesses and connectors for looseness, oil contamination, excessive wear, wire chaffing, etc. Certain year models have specific areas of repeat failure.

After all that, then this is where a scan tool (not just a code reader) comes in handy. ForScan (Lite or FULL version) is a good bargain for a scan tool. Some important parameters to watch: ICP readings (pressure), IPR duty cycle, VGT duty cycle, EGR position, system voltage, oil temp and coolant temp, EBP, boost, etc.

If none of the above have told you anything, then the tests need to become more symptom (or code) specific.

So, dannyboy1130 .......
You might want to start a new thread, you will get more responses w/ a new thread and a good title for it.
What FICM repair did you do? Have you rechecked the FICM voltage? Any coolant loss or white staining around the degas bottle? Any of the earlier questions catch your eye?

Mar 17, 2012 | 03:32 PM

#73

DBS1

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Joined: Mar 2011

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From: Mojave Desert SoCal

Bump

I think its time for another Bump

Mar 17, 2012 | 10:25 PM

#74

powerstroker100

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From: Upstate NY

Quote:

Originally Posted by bismic

<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">5. Miscellaneous (2 of 2) - THIS IS THE LAST ONE I HAVE - please add to it!!

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 476pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=634 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 476pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 23186" width=634><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 22.5pt" height=30><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 476pt; HEIGHT: 22.5pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl26 height=30 width=634>Injectors - Upgrade OR International has released a replacement injector that addresses that issue. They are selling them below $100 each from International.

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>Oil Leaks - most common leak points:

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=15>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/622121-oil-leak.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=15>http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/photographs/index3.php</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>Power Steering Pump - Upgrade to AGR pump when OEM fails</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>Ball Joints - Upgrade to MOOG greasable ball joints when OEM wears at between 50k and 100k</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>Sway bar end link (passenger) - prone to early failure - replace</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>Steering Wobble - Add dual steering stabilizers</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>Wheel Bearings - revised dust shields (TSB)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>Hubs and wheel bearings - OEM not serviceable. Switch to DynaTrac Free Spin or DynaLoc when OEM fails.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>Limited Slip Differential - Switch to Detrroit True Trac when OEM fails.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>ARP head studs</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>Torque Converter - switch to Suncoast or Precision Industries when OEM fails</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 11.25pt" height=15><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; HEIGHT: 11.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=15>Front Brake Rotors - switch to ART or Powerslot ProStop when OEM fails</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

wait.. IH dealers sell injectors for $100??? is it international that rebuilds them?

thats awesome if its true, does anyone has a part# ?