Just thought I would bump again for new owners. The FTE Tech folder is FULL of good info!!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html

 

I loved this thread, and was wondering on the comment on problem area 5 ... the dreaded injectors. It states that International has some updated ones for under 100 bucks. My 06 has 112K and it run terrible cold and sounds like a heavy injector or two. Ford says it needs to replace 4 injectors. I can replace them myself but was wondering about best place to buy and anyone else having cold sluggish performance. And Im not talking freezing cold, I live in florida.

thanks

 

hey 2 things one has been caught wich was the 400 degree alarm for oil. it should be set to 240 as stated. Just an fyi on this however is that at 350*f the oil filter stand pipe will turn to a liquid stated and melt. not a good thing

the second is the stc elimanation block does not require removeal of the heads or cab to install. its only requires the high pressure pump to be removed and the updated parts takes the place of the stc fitting.

 

I thought I would add this (from a different thread) to this one (since it is already in the Tech Folder):

If you want a "lifer" of a truck (updated version):
.

1. Heavily consider staying un-tuned. If you have to get a tune, a good tow tune can add power and still be reliable. An Atlas 40 FICM tune is nice also. Regardless, you MUST drive your truck wisely! Avoid over-boosts! Remember - some tunes are WAY better than others - choose wisely!
2. Drive EASY until the truck is FULLY warm
3. Be METICULOUS on ALL the fluid and filter changes. OEM filters are IMPORTANT! PROPER fluids are IMPORTANT!
4. EC-1 rated ELC Coolant is a MUST IMO, and monitor the coolant level frequently. Stay watchful for leaks! Yes, you might be able to make the Ford Gold work with flushes every 45k miles and making sure you kept coolant temperatures down ........... BUT WHY SETTLE WITH THAT??!!
5. Properly maintain your batteries and alternator, Check batteries a few times a year, and even put them on a "reconditioning" charger! Proper voltage is important - especially to your FICM.
6. Be very picky about where you fuel up - bad fuel can cause a lot of issues. Drain your HFCM every oil change and when you drain water from it, empty it into a jar and visually inspect.
7. GAUGES - fuel pressure, boost, EGT, EOT and ECT - minimum. Keep temperatures down, Excess heat is a "slow killer" of lubrication and o-ring life! Also be watchful for signs of your turbo beginning to stick, or your EBP/MAP sensors getting a bit "off".
8. High Pressure Oil system updates:
   • Adrenaline or CNCFab HPOP for '03's and early '04's
   • Standpipes and Dummy plugs in addition to the HPOP above for late '04's
   • STC fitting replacement/upgrade in addition to the standpipes and dummy plugs for '05's
9. Coolant filter until you are sure all of the solids are out of your system. You can remove the coolant filter if you have CLEAN EC-1 RATED ELC COOLANT!
10. Blue Spring fuel pressure regulator upgrade, or aftermarket solution to proper fuel supply and pressure.
11. For late '04's and above, a BulletProofDiesel EGR cooler.
12. 2008 Tranny pan with filter (to replace the internal pan "screen").
13. Upgraded FICM by FICMrepair.com (or possibly by CircuitBoardMedics.com)
14. Depending on the year model, you may need the updated turbo drain tube (Ford Part # 6C3Z-9T515-A).
15. High idle mod in case you have to idle for very long.
16. CCV re-route (Use 1 inch hose, GST-II for oil resistance, and I use a Racor-6000-08-L, but a RACOR 4500 would probably do).
17. Power Steering filter is a nice addition, but clearly not a requirement (Magnefine #M010CB - w/ 3/8 inch connections).

Head studs help IMO (MUST have flat heads and block deck or proper surface finish), but not an absolute requirement if you remain un-tuned.
Good quality O-ringed heads are a tremendous thing to have!

I think an engine can be reliable WITH the EGR system active, as long as you get the upgraded EGR cooler for the '04.5 and up model years. If you do have an active EGR system: Regularly "pull and check" EGR valve for coking (and for wetness) - do it w/ your truck on an incline facing downwards. maybe even do the same for your turbo.

A Fuel Cetane supplement isn't a bad thing from time-to-time.

 

Also -

Twelve best mods (IMO):
1. coolant filter (dieselsite filter is a good choice).
2. Stiffer fuel pressure regulator spring (3c3Z-9t517-ae) or the BB mod.
3. Larger turbo oil drain tube (depending on your year model) (Ford Part # 6C3Z-9T515-A or International Part # 1876071C91)
4. Gauges!!! Especially fuel pressure, boost, ECT, and EOT.
5. ccv re-route ( 1 inch hose, GST-II for oil resistance, and a Racor filter - either a 4500 or a 6000, ).
6. Fumoto valve (http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...PROD&ProdID=33)
7. Updated HFCM drain plug (Ford #6E7Z-9C082-A or International #2589259C91)
8. Harpoon the fuel tank
9. High idle mod
10. Power steering filter (Magnefine #M010CB - w/ 3/8 inch connections).
11. BriteBox
12. 24 inch windshield wipers,,lol

The last two are just convenience mods thrown in for fun.

I also think that a front bumper replacement (like ranch hand) can be a lifesaver in deer country! Also, Bilstein shocks seem to be highly recommended. When the time comes - be sure to get "DynaTrac" ball joints!

 

Bismic, THANKS for the previous two posts. Very good info for everyone to put into their back pockets and return to the lists as much as they can.

 

Awesome info, stopped me from buying a cold air induction set up and just get a new filter. I was wondering if a K&N stock style filter would be a good replacement.

 

Because of everything I read here, I actually removed the Rapid Flow Induction setup that was on my truck when I bought it. I bought a stock system from another 2003 model and just installed it over the weekend. It's HUGE! A new stock Ford air filter costs $50 on-line but is supposed to last a very long time. I would not substitute it with a K&N because the cleanliness of the air into the turbo is paramount to keeping it alive. The stock setup seems to work well and the filter element is integral to that. Plus, I like the built in gauge that shows how much life I have left - clever design.

I have my RFI complete with a re-useable filter if anyone wants it.

Steve

 

Satwood,
Thanks for the advice, I am betting this is not the best thread to get rid of that thing considering the topic...lol

 

I see this listed various times in this forum
"For 05's and 06's - replace the STC fitting with the updated one piece connection."
Is there a way to identify the fitting old vs new pictures on the site?, and is there a write up on its replacement. Does this require immediate attention, as in can cause catastrophic failure and $$$$? Will Ford replace it or is it an aftermarket part?
I have a 2006 so I am assuming from what I read this is needed?

Sorry to seem so "green" but new to powerstrokes and learning as I go.

thanks

 

Many thanks to Mark (bismic) for the info !

 

Ford put together an overview (called a coffee table book) on the 6.0L.

Here is the link (Thanks to Troy Buenger) - thought it should be available in this Tech Folder thread:

https://www.powerstrokediesel.com/index.aspx?PageId=417#

Go to the page in the link and then choose to play the video entitled:

6.0L Power Stroke<SUP>®</SUP> Diesel Overview

and

Here is Ford's article on maintenance intervals:

https://www.powerstrokediesel.com/do...%20250-550.pdf
https://www.powerstrokediesel.com/do...0Intervals.pdf

 

this is a great thread ( one of many ) I don't know how I missed it when it was new

thanx for keeping it alive

 

Thanks bismic and everyone else involved in keeping this forum going. I am learning quite a bit about my 06 Ford F350 with a 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel.
Again thanks
bens170

 

New 6.0L ('07 F350 4:10 DRW) owner here and this is great stuff. My head is already spinning.