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Edelbrock Throttle Linkage Help

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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 11:29 PM
  #31  
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Nice picture, but you have a stock manifold, Pitbull has an aftermarket manifold, which is taller, and a carb spacer, again putting the carb even higher than stock, therefore he would need to "lengthen" the kickdown rod to make it function correctly.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 08:34 AM
  #32  
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Gary, can you make that bigger, or email it to me? I'll post it for him on photobucket

Psquare75 @ comcast.net
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 08:34 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Nice picture, but you have a stock manifold, Pitbull has an aftermarket manifold, which is taller, and a carb spacer, again putting the carb even higher than stock, therefore he would need to "lengthen" the kickdown rod to make it function correctly.
Or just bend it.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 06:30 PM
  #34  
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Kickdown Lever

Here is another view with a larger picture. I hope it is more helpful. As far as the lever being too short, mine was over an inch. You can manipulate its length by bending it up at the tranny end and down at the carb end. I think you would be surprised how much you can extend the length by bending it properly.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 08:38 PM
  #35  
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I kinda put this kick down rod on the back burner but I worked on it some today and I think I got it where it needs to be. I have it bent so that when I give enough gas to get into the four barrel it should then push down on the kick down rod. It is where the 2 barrels will be all the way open but a little futher it will start opening the four barrels and will push down on the kick down rod. Does this sound right? Going by the way I understand how the kickdown works I thought it was right.

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 09:39 PM
  #36  
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All you need to be concerned with is

WOT = rod moved back as far as possible. use the screw for adjusting as well as bending if need be.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 11:11 PM
  #37  
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I concur, you adjust the kickdown in wide open throttle. Otherwise it will bottom out and you won't be able to fully open the carb.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 07:19 AM
  #38  
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Ok, I thought I had the right idea with it. I will go check today to make sure it will bottom out the kick down rod though.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 08:03 AM
  #39  
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hey , i was just reading this older thread i'm in the same boat different day! trying to locate 460 oem rod or spend 12hrs fabbing 1.5[one&ahalf} cusssstume kickdown rod..just wondering how it all ended up? :-
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 08:30 AM
  #40  
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That I can tell I finally got it all hooked up. Like someone said before the rod does bend pretty easy but it can also kink easy if not careful. I may go take some pictures of all the stuff that has been done to the truck today and will post what I done with the linkages.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 09:57 AM
  #41  
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I just had to add this even if it will gain some negative comments but.........that’s why I love my Holley! My 750 already had the Ford kick down linkage installed on the carb right out of the box and everything was a direct bolt on with no modifications necessary. I tried an Edelbrock once since I worked at a parts store and got them at cost and I was not impressed at all. It ran ok once I got the truck started and when cold, but once you ran the pickup on a good hot day and shut it off, when you tried to re-start the engine it would just crank and crank and crank. My Holley would fire right up.

Maybe back in the day Holley's had to be messed with all the time but I have had mine now for 8 years with no problems. I have made some changes to get it dialed in to my engine, but once that was done, I just drive. That is always the stereotype with Holley's they need to be adjusted all the time, and it is just not true.

Like I said I couldn't resist adding this to an Edelbrock topic!

Jeff
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:05 PM
  #42  
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You might have had a bum carb to begin with. AFB carbs are great for "set it and forget it"

And being Aluminum they resist gas percolating. Possibly the floats weren't set right and bleeding off fuel into the intake.
 
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