Riffraff Diesel Performance FRx installed
Riffraff Diesel Performance FRx installed
Not sure if Clay wanted me to post this, but here's some highlights of his new FRx (aka CCK) he installed on my truck at RRE. We also installed a hard HPX line at the same time. It was a pretty noticeable difference after all the air was worked out. A smoother idle and quieter too.
Pics taken at night, hopefully they show the detail.
Remove FPR on the side of the fuel bowl and the return fuel line connected to it.

Install new block with barbed fitting with the new screws provided. I didn't get a picture of this new block, but it should be noted it is machined inside to act as a shimmed FPR. A very nice touch and does two mods at the same time here.

Remove the two bolts in front of the reservoir that secure the fuel bowl. No need to remove them completely, just pull them out until the bowl moves freely.

This is the reason you remove the fuel bowl bolts. You need it a little loose to rethread the hard line back on to the new block you just installed. It makes it much easier, otherwise you'll be fighting it. Ask Clay.
After you get the return line threaded back on, reinstall the bolts to the fuel bowl and tighten. Then tighten the return line on to the new block.

Remove the fuel plug from the rear of the driver's side head and install the supplied fitting.


Do the same for the front fuel plug on the passenger side head.

It was getting late and didn't get shots of the 90 barbs that go on the fittings you just screwed into the fuel rails. But you screw those on, tighten, and slip on the fuel line on both fittings and run the line toward the fuel bowl.

Then take the machined "T" and attach both fuel lines to the T. Then from the T another short piece to the new block that was secured on to the fuel bowl.

And it will look like this:

It really was that simple. There are no factory lines to cut, no removing of the front accessory bracket and it all looks great. He really made some nice improvements to the other kits I've seen, like I mentioned about not removing the front accessory bracket, no cutting of the lines, and the machined in shim for the FPR. I'm really happy with how this one turned out on my truck.
The terminology I used is probably off, so what I wasn't sure about I made up, I can't remember what he called each piece.
Pics taken at night, hopefully they show the detail.
Remove FPR on the side of the fuel bowl and the return fuel line connected to it.

Install new block with barbed fitting with the new screws provided. I didn't get a picture of this new block, but it should be noted it is machined inside to act as a shimmed FPR. A very nice touch and does two mods at the same time here.

Remove the two bolts in front of the reservoir that secure the fuel bowl. No need to remove them completely, just pull them out until the bowl moves freely.

This is the reason you remove the fuel bowl bolts. You need it a little loose to rethread the hard line back on to the new block you just installed. It makes it much easier, otherwise you'll be fighting it. Ask Clay.
After you get the return line threaded back on, reinstall the bolts to the fuel bowl and tighten. Then tighten the return line on to the new block.
Remove the fuel plug from the rear of the driver's side head and install the supplied fitting.


Do the same for the front fuel plug on the passenger side head.

It was getting late and didn't get shots of the 90 barbs that go on the fittings you just screwed into the fuel rails. But you screw those on, tighten, and slip on the fuel line on both fittings and run the line toward the fuel bowl.

Then take the machined "T" and attach both fuel lines to the T. Then from the T another short piece to the new block that was secured on to the fuel bowl.

And it will look like this:

It really was that simple. There are no factory lines to cut, no removing of the front accessory bracket and it all looks great. He really made some nice improvements to the other kits I've seen, like I mentioned about not removing the front accessory bracket, no cutting of the lines, and the machined in shim for the FPR. I'm really happy with how this one turned out on my truck.
The terminology I used is probably off, so what I wasn't sure about I made up, I can't remember what he called each piece.
Well, I,m kicking myself in the butt that I didn't do this mod at RRE when you did yours, thats for sure..Reps to yaa Keith for the great writeup and pics, looks like i,m giving Clay a call when gets home. Would be interested since it acts as a fuel shim also, what kind of fuel pressure it allows.??

Well, I,m kicking myself in the butt that I didn't do this mod at RRE when you did yours, thats for sure..Reps to yaa Keith for the great writeup and pics, looks like i,m giving Clay a call when gets home. Would be interested since it acts as a fuel shim also, what kind of fuel pressure it allows.??
No seriously, that had nothing to do with it. Clay will have to advise how much it shims the pressure up, I really don't know.
Interesting, I'll have to ask when I call him to order it. Not to get off base Keith, was the pump the culprit at the track that day, did you change it out at RRE?? I was running all around the campground and forgot to check in on that issue you were having..
The issue at track day was just me being hypersensitive. There wasn't anything wrong other than the OBA I had that was bleeding some boost off.
The fuel pump had already been replaced by then. It was just it's time and was going to go I guess, I got lucky and it happened at the campground. Could have just as easily happened on the I-81 and left me stranded.
I hadn't even revved the engine up faster than an idle when it went out, it sat there and idled for about 3-4 minutes and died as I was leaving the camp site.
The fuel pump had already been replaced by then. It was just it's time and was going to go I guess, I got lucky and it happened at the campground. Could have just as easily happened on the I-81 and left me stranded.
I hadn't even revved the engine up faster than an idle when it went out, it sat there and idled for about 3-4 minutes and died as I was leaving the camp site.
Great write up and pics Keith. They will be a great help to anyone that is considering doing this mod.
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The issue at track day was just me being hypersensitive. There wasn't anything wrong other than the OBA I had that was bleeding some boost off.
The fuel pump had already been replaced by then. It was just it's time and was going to go I guess, I got lucky and it happened at the campground. Could have just as easily happened on the I-81 and left me stranded.
I hadn't even revved the engine up faster than an idle when it went out, it sat there and idled for about 3-4 minutes and died as I was leaving the camp site.
The fuel pump had already been replaced by then. It was just it's time and was going to go I guess, I got lucky and it happened at the campground. Could have just as easily happened on the I-81 and left me stranded.
I hadn't even revved the engine up faster than an idle when it went out, it sat there and idled for about 3-4 minutes and died as I was leaving the camp site.
I was involved in the install on Keith's truck and can say that Riffraff has taken a popular mod (that should have been done by International in the first place) and made it easier to install and it performs as well if not better.
I can also tell you that the price is fantastic. When Clay gets back to the shop hes going to be busy.
I can also tell you that the price is fantastic. When Clay gets back to the shop hes going to be busy.
The main reason we created this product was to make the installation more simplistic and do away with the compression fittings.
The main reason we created this product was to make the installation more simplistic and do away with the compression fittings.










