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Just joined so I could say thanks for the help. My wife has a 99 ford explorer and we have two kids. She couldn't get my daughter out of the back door because it wouldn't unlock. In fact both back doors needed multiple unlocks from the drivers side unlock button to eventually open the door. Eventually, it would not unlock. I noticed the small spring broken in both latches (could see it in the latch). After taking the panel off and tinkering for a while, I decided to log on and search. I used "Lizards" advice and actually used the broken springs. I just stretched them out and made a circle on the broken end to go over the end of the rod (right below the yellow block). I stretched the top up to a hole in the interior of the door and it worked perfect. Just putting enough up pressure on the exterior handle latch rod fixed the problem and cost nothing. In today's economy, I was dreading bringing my wife's explorer to a dealership. Thanks again from a new member.
Just wanted to add my thanks to the original poster and the contributors to this thread. I've "dealing" with the drivers side door not unlocking for a few weeks now and finally decided to the do the search. Great fix because it's cheap and easy!
Ok, I had this problem ever since my truck got broken into. For whatever reason the only way i could unlock my truck was from the inside door latch. I had no problem locking it with either the automatic button, or my keyless remote. but unlocking it with the two did not seem to work. if you are having this problem, as i see many perople are, i found the fix. There are actually several things it could be.
My problem was the fact that the arm that came up to the outdoor key entry was undone and left dangling in the wind. this jammed the whole mechanism making it impossible to unlock with the keyless or button. In fact you have to make sure nothing interferes with the celenoid. The slightest pressure renders the whole unlocking process useless.
secondly, ensure the whole locking and latch site is free and clear of rust and debris. As I found, the littlest bit of pressure will not allow the selenoid to fully unlock the mechanism.
Finally. Ensure none of the bars are bent, and the locking knobby thingy can fluently extract and retract.
I brought my truck into the Dealership and found out it was going to cost plus of 600 bucks for them to fix it. It took me an hour of troubleshooting to fix the problem, and have been happy since. Hope this helps any one
Just used this method to repair the door locks on my 98 EB Explorer.
Son and I opened up the door and noticed that the outside latch handle springs were both broken and that the plunger spring was gone. We passed on doing anything on the outside door latch and rigged a spring very similarly to the manner depicted in Audell's pics. The spring added a bit of tension to the outside door latch and the door lock on the driver's door now works.
Having passed on doing anything on the outside door latch springs, how long do you think this fix will last? We used a small spring that we bought at Ace Hardware.
Well... it seems I'm not alone. Last night I had the pleasure of trying to figure out why the driver's rear door on the Explorer wouldn't open. I did find one small spring broken inside the latch assembly. Has anyone had any luck finding a diagram of where the springs are supposed to go? I think I can fix it with the info in this thread but pictures make life easier.
Timmygene, thanks for the good idea. I was going nuts trying to figure out where in the latch it came from. I probably reinstalled it half a dozen times till I looked on line. That latch is just poorly engineered. Props to all.
Well I tackled a door latch and door handles today cost me $60 dollars for both items new.
Tackled the handle first it was pretty straight forward. both return springs were broken so handle just flopped around.
propped the handle up drilled out both rivets punched them out then reached in unhooked it from the lock then pulled out the old handle.
Installed the new handle bolted in back in with new bolts supplied.
had to unbolt the window channel and pull it out gave me a lot more room and able to view everything better.
unplug the wires now for the next step I unbolted the latch from the door frame then unhooked the key lock rod from the key lock.
next I found it easier to remove the inside door handle from the door and rod.
i found it easy to use side cutters to nip away the plastic clips holding the inside door latch rod and the inside door lock rod.
once those 2 rods were removed I had to thread the power door latch rod out of the bottom of the latch.
this took me a while next time it will go faster but it was very easy going back together.
I destroyed the old plastic clips only because the new one came with clips.
The outside door handle rod where it connects to the latch is threaded and connects with a plastic clip that does not come with the new one you must resuse the old one do not damage it.
1.my drivers side door handle is loose on the outside a litlle floppy, but the door opens.
2. the door will not unlock with key or code drivers side only from the outside, i cant unlock the power door lock from inside the car with the door closed using the unlock switch, but it will unlock if the door is open. the only way i can get the door open while sitting in the car is to pull on the door handle. i guess it sounds like the actuator might be ok since the door lock goes up with the door open. maybe is is just a spring? thx for the help
Thanks GTech
If you attach the spring between top small hole and the T bar both are fixed and the spring will do nothing. However if you attach the short end to top small hole in the chassis, and the other repaired end to the slot in the key entry lever which is just above the T bar. This will pull up on the key entry lever which is what is needed. Short spring end fed up to hole with small wire. Long end of reparied spring (bent new hook in end of broken spring.
Last edited by old-timer72; Oct 27, 2023 at 08:41 PM.
Reason: Mis spelling