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HX Crossover Mod

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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 07:44 AM
  #1  
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From: Spring, Texas
HX Crossover Mod

I put a crossover hose on the motor last night and wow! If you don't have this in your motor go get one now! I did the install in about thrity minutes including clean up and everything. The motor is much smoother at idle and a lot quieter.

This mod has a lot of bang for the buck. In tank and pre pump this weekend!
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 07:49 AM
  #2  
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thats great, i've been thinking of this mod also.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 07:57 AM
  #3  
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get the SS tube....the rubber line has a chance to blow..
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:14 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by haulingboat
///SNIP///
In tank and pre pump this weekend!
You think the HPX made a difference... Wait 'til you get the in-tanks done!!
 

Last edited by Izzy351; Jan 15, 2008 at 08:40 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:16 AM
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Congrats.
.
A caution about doing the in-tank mod. I don't know if they provide a pre-filter for the pump or not, but you will end up with a bunch of crud from the tank inside your fuel pump screen. From there you will have a severe loss of top end power due to loss of fuel volume.
Since you are installing a pre-pump, this may work:
Figure out a way to get a filter installed between the pre-pump and the main fuel pump.
What I would recommend is a filter similar to this:
Bosch part number: 71 028 or 0 450 905 030

It is a Bosch fuel filter that is widely used on a lot of gasoline powered cars that run fuel pressures of around 40 psi. You'll have to mount it on the frame rail somewhere to get it before the main pump. It is a fine enough filter to stop anything that would get stuck in the pump screen, but I wouldn't run it without a pre-pump between the filter and the tank. It would cause too much draw on the main pump. These filters are always mounted downstream of the fuel pump on the cars they are designed for.
As far as the pre-pump is concerned, I don't know if it has a screen or not. If it does, it needs to be serviceable or it will quickly fill with sediment as well and create a bottleneck.
.
For the record, I have my pump migrated to the end of the pickup in the fuel tank and the only filter that it has is the mushroom head screen that is on the end of the pickup itself. All it does is stop the chunks. Everything else goes right through the pump and is stopped at the main filter on the engine. So far the pump has done just fine. It doesn't make any unusual noises at all and it's been more than a year.
Sorry for the really long post, but I wanted to get you thinking about this before you start in on the job. If you don't stop the crud from entering the pump in the first place, you'll end up going back under the truck to deal with that issue within a few weeks.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:31 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Congrats.
.
A caution about doing the in-tank mod. I don't know if they provide a pre-filter for the pump or not, but you will end up with a bunch of crud from the tank inside your fuel pump screen. From there you will have a severe loss of top end power due to loss of fuel volume.
Since you are installing a pre-pump, this may work:
Figure out a way to get a filter installed between the pre-pump and the main fuel pump.
What I would recommend is a filter similar to this:
Bosch part number: 71 028 or 0 450 905 030

It is a Bosch fuel filter that is widely used on a lot of gasoline powered cars that run fuel pressures of around 40 psi. You'll have to mount it on the frame rail somewhere to get it before the main pump. It is a fine enough filter to stop anything that would get stuck in the pump screen, but I wouldn't run it without a pre-pump between the filter and the tank. It would cause too much draw on the main pump. These filters are always mounted downstream of the fuel pump on the cars they are designed for.
As far as the pre-pump is concerned, I don't know if it has a screen or not. If it does, it needs to be serviceable or it will quickly fill with sediment as well and create a bottleneck.
.
For the record, I have my pump migrated to the end of the pickup in the fuel tank and the only filter that it has is the mushroom head screen that is on the end of the pickup itself. All it does is stop the chunks. Everything else goes right through the pump and is stopped at the main filter on the engine. So far the pump has done just fine. It doesn't make any unusual noises at all and it's been more than a year.
Sorry for the really long post, but I wanted to get you thinking about this before you start in on the job. If you don't stop the crud from entering the pump in the first place, you'll end up going back under the truck to deal with that issue within a few weeks.
Thanks for the tips! i will be installing this kit:

http://www.dieselinnovations.com/di....cts&product=28

The kit includes a see thru filter that mounts between the tank and pump to accomplish exactly what you were talking about. I need to pick up the tube cutter you suggested for hacking the quick connects. Other than that I think I am ready.

Any other suggestions?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:31 AM
  #7  
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how do you do this mod. i've never seen this one before. i must be slacking.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:39 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by ron01sd
how do you do this mod. i've never seen this one before. i must be slacking.
the HPX mod ? it will cross the oil rails to balance the pressure on both sides....get the SS tube..the one in the pic is rubber..i didnt know about the SS till after i got this one..
 

Last edited by ron's power stoke; Jan 15, 2008 at 08:42 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:44 AM
  #9  
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haulingboat
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From: Spring, Texas
Originally Posted by ron01sd
how do you do this mod. i've never seen this one before. i must be slacking.
I installed this one:

http://www.dieselinnovations.com/techfiles/hx-kit.pdf

Couldn't have been any easier. One tip, put a rag in the space between the head and the turbo so when you drop the fitting while trying to thread it into the block it does not fall into the abyss. I lost one under the turbo somewhere that has yet to be found.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:48 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by haulingboat
Thanks for the tips! i will be installing this kit:

http://www.dieselinnovations.com/di.php?page=products&product=28

The kit includes a see thru filter that mounts between the tank and pump to accomplish exactly what you were talking about. I need to pick up the tube cutter you suggested for hacking the quick connects. Other than that I think I am ready.

Any other suggestions?
You have it covered. Next week you will wonder why you waited so long.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:57 AM
  #11  
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What type of filter is that, Thomas? I found a similar one for gassers that I've been using, but that one is probably a better filter for the application.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 09:09 AM
  #12  
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I have the same kit as Thomas ordered and mine came with a Baldwin BF7725.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 09:15 AM
  #13  
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how much quiter does it make the truck. i dont want to ride around in a granny sounding truck. i want the houses around me to know when i'm leaving for work.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 09:21 AM
  #14  
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what kind of pressures are you talking for the injectors and oil system. do you really need a hose with 4000psi rating? what rating of psi hose should i use. i have acsess to all the brass fitting i can get, so all i should have to buy would be some hose.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 09:26 AM
  #15  
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Interesting. Here's the one I used:
http://www.adiesel.com/baldwinfilters/BF7736.html

And looking at the Baldwin specs, it's also good for diesel apps. It definitely works and already saved my butt with some dirty fuel. My only question now is how they compare in flow rates.
 
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