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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 04:13 PM
  #46  
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[QUOTE=rbaker6336]
Originally Posted by Izzy351
Plus it will drop right on the pickup when the tank gets low, letting air back under the pickup foot.
QUOTE]

if an air bubble did drop down and not float and get to the pickup you would already be out of fuel and it wouldn't matter anyway
Not to argue, but look how far water carries air down a bucket of water. If you shoot the fuel straight down, you'll be making foam by aerating the fuel in the tank, and pointing it right at the pickup foot. None of that is productive to keeping air out of the system. Best idea is to gently return it to the bottom of the tank where it has the least opportunity to make bubbles out away from the pickup foot and the float. Don't know why this is such a point of contention -- as soon as you have a stream of fuel shooting through the air, it makes foam & bubbles, right??
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 04:17 PM
  #47  
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[QUOTE=Izzy351]
Originally Posted by rbaker6336
Not to argue, but look how far water carries air down a bucket of water. If you shoot the fuel straight down, you'll be making foam by aerating the fuel in the tank, and pointing it right at the pickup foot. None of that is productive to keeping air out of the system. Best idea is to gently return it to the bottom of the tank where it has the least opportunity to make bubbles out away from the pickup foot and the float. Don't know why this is such a point of contention -- as soon as you have a stream of fuel shooting through the air, it makes foam & bubbles, right??
Sounds spot on to me. I will be extending the return similar to Dan's.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 04:23 PM
  #48  
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[QUOTE=Izzy351]
Originally Posted by rbaker6336
Not to argue, but look how far water carries air down a bucket of water. If you shoot the fuel straight down, you'll be making foam by aerating the fuel in the tank, and pointing it right at the pickup foot. None of that is productive to keeping air out of the system. Best idea is to gently return it to the bottom of the tank where it has the least opportunity to make bubbles out away from the pickup foot and the float. Don't know why this is such a point of contention -- as soon as you have a stream of fuel shooting through the air, it makes foam & bubbles, right??
damn fino,just in all my years never had any air bubble problem and it always dumped at top of the tank

guess when I do mine will depend on the mood I'm in where it will go
 
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 11:04 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
Dan,

I was going to go searching for that pic and came back here and found that you posted it. Big Thanks. This time I saved it off the post. Hope you don't mind.
There's more in my gallery: "Fuel pump in the tank".
If you want the high resolution pictures I can send them to you.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 07:38 AM
  #50  
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Thanks Again Dan
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 08:46 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
It doesn't make it any quieter, but rather just evens out the diesel sound.
Sort of a transition from chunky to smooth.
Noted. I drove it again yesterday and did notice she idles smoother and appears quieter at idle. It's really noticable in my driveway when the truck is up against the side of the house.
I'm pleased with the results. Well worth the cost and effort.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 09:08 AM
  #52  
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Does the HPX line improve HPOP function, which in turn might keep the service engine light off at WOT?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 09:21 AM
  #53  
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No, not really. Just evens out the pressure between the heads. Does nothing to increase volume.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 11:40 AM
  #54  
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I have the same crossover and didnt notice much of a differance if any with noise or idle, my truck has always idled fine and never been very noisy. HMMM I wonder why?
Rich
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 12:15 PM
  #55  
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I dont wish to hi jack, but I do want a comparison, why is the HPX straight across a good idea, but the fuel line cross over isnt, with out a bleed off? Or a regulated return. (CC mod)
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 12:24 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by just another truck
I dont wish to hi jack, but I do want a comparison, why is the HPX straight across a good idea, but the fuel line cross over isnt, with out a bleed off? Or a regulated return. (CC mod)
Th HXP and CC kit are good together. The CC kit does have the "T" in it for the return, or atleast my kit did. A regulated return is different than a CC kit. A CC kit isn't regulated, it just ties the fuel rails in one head to the other, and helps cylinder 8 with fuel pressure after cylinder 6 fires.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 12:35 PM
  #57  
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Thank you, so the return is suggested, but not needed?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 12:48 PM
  #58  
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I noticed my engine didn't "jump around" in the bay as much after the HPX install. A little quieter, too.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 12:51 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by just another truck
Thank you, so the return is suggested, but not needed?
I wouldn't say its not necessary, they are just two different ways of doing it. The regulated return costs 5 times as much, but goes deeper into the fueling problem, and if you run big oil and injectors for big horse power gains its better.<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=2>ITP 7.3L "Standard" Regulated Return Kit
</TD></TR><TR><TD class=product_description vAlign=top align=left colSpan=2>

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
For the average guy like me just making smaller Hp gains and just smoothing out the motor, a CCkit works fine. Th reg. return kit above is $549, My CC kit was $119 with the rubber HXP line. If youplan on upgrading to real high HPs go with the return kit, I was happy with the CC kit. I think I explained that right, if not chime in somebody.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 12:54 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by rugermack
Th HXP and CC kit are good together. The CC kit does have the "T" in it for the return, or atleast my kit did. A regulated return is different than a CC kit. A CC kit isn't regulated, it just ties the fuel rails in one head to the other, and helps cylinder 8 with fuel pressure after cylinder 6 fires.
It *IS* regulated, just not with a "regulator". There is a fixed orifice that goes before the tee to keep pressure in the heads. Theoretically, you could put a regulator there and have it adjustable or play with orifice sizes. Jason has already done the hard part (actually, I think it was Dan-kwikkordead that first tabled the idea) so there's really no reason to change it. However, you can also adjust the pressure by shimming the IPR, so there is some adjustability. I really don't know what full RR benefits are over the CCK -- seems to me it does the same thing for $120.

EDIT: I think the full RR includes all new lines & fuel bowl delete option, where the CCK uses the stock lines & bowl. In practice, it's not a whole lot of difference. If you're building a high HP truck, the solution is obvious -- the "rest" of us can use the CCK and gain the same benefits.
 

Last edited by Izzy351; Jan 16, 2008 at 12:58 PM.
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