HX Crossover Mod

A regulated return kit is $549

Theres alot more to the regulated kit, and i'm sure it works better. If your just going to stay with stock injectors and HPOP, the CC kit should be fine. If you plan to make big HP with bigger injectors and oil pump, then maybe the regulated kit is for you. I just wanted to smooth out the motor, and I do anything that helps with the life of the motor and its parts. I also shimmed the regulator for a little increase in fuel pressure.
Really, you can make your own regulated return and fuel bowl delete very inexpensively.
1. CC-Kit for the return side. $119 or less if you source your own parts
2. 5/8" fuel line from pump to front of engine (get the parker just like the cc-kit, as it is fire rated hose. $20-$30
3. delete fuel bowl.(free)
4. 5/8" T from #2, and a line to the front of the drivers side head fuel port, and a line to the PAX rear fuel port, or you could feed both front fuel ports, and return out of the rear fuel ports. $40 for various JIC to NPT fittings
your regulation would be adjusted with the size of the orifice at the T off the return side.
5.You will need to mount a remote filter assembly on the frame $50
Remember, you will probably only adjust it once or twice then just run it.
the whole thing can be done for $240 or less if you source the hose and fittings for the cc-kit.
The fuel system on these PSDs is not complicated. feed one side of each head, and drain the other side of the same head, and then run the drain into a T with an orifice,(this creates pressure, and bleeds air) back to the tank. the T in a stock set up is the fuel bowl
See my gallery for a pic of it done under my hood. See pics 19,20,21 , now I went one step further and got a 95GPH FASS pump to replace my failing stock pump, but if you stock pump is good then you won't need it.
Last edited by bdrummonds; Jan 16, 2008 at 03:22 PM.
Really, you can make your own regulated return and fuel bowl delete very inexpensively.
1. CC-Kit for the return side. $119 or less if you source your own parts
2. 5/8" fuel line from pump to front of engine (get the parker just like the cc-kit, as it is fire rated hose. $20-$30
3. delete fuel bowl.(free)
4. 5/8" T from #2, and a line to the front of the drivers side head fuel port, and a line to the PAX rear fuel port, or you could feed both front fuel ports, and return out of the rear fuel ports. $40 for various JIC to NPT fittings
your regulation would be adjusted with the size of the orifice at the T off the return side.
5.You will need to mount a remote filter assembly on the frame $50
Remember, you will probably only adjust it once or twice then just run it.
the whole thing can be done for $240 or less if you source the hose and fittings for the cc-kit.
The fuel system on these PSDs is not complicated. feed one side of each head, and drain the other side of the same head, and then run the drain into a T with an orifice,(this creates pressure, and bleeds air) back to the tank. the T in a stock set up is the fuel bowl
See my gallery for a pic of it done under my hood. See pics 19,20,21 , now I went one step further and got a 95GPH FASS pump to replace my failing stock pump, but if you stock pump is good then you won't need it.
the one that came with the CC-kit is the one that I am currently using, and it is holding 75psi at idle, and 68psi at WOT with my 120R setting for my DP tuner. I dont have a fuel bowl so mine is regulated by the orifice, not the FPR on the fuel bowl








