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It doesn't make it any quieter, but rather just evens out the diesel sound.
Sort of a transition from chunky to smooth.
Ron01,
What he said! The difference is at idle. Your truck has one sensor that monitors the oil pressure for both heads. That sensor is in the drivers side head so with the stock set up the sensor really only accounts for the drivers side head. It does not know what is happening on the passenger side. The crossover tube hooks the oil flow together which helps even out the flow and allows the sensor to adjust the pressure more accurately for both heads not just the drivers side. This inturn helps the motor to run more precisely.
I think I spent $45 and the change it made was well worth the money.
Again the sound only changes at idle. It will be the same when you accelerate. You will still awaken the neighbors.
So, the filter and hose are 5/16ths, and the actual intank mod is 3/8ths. Might be easier and cheaper to just make the kit. 3/8 compression union, 3/8 tubing, 5/16 gas line and 5/16 filter. and some clamps. Does that sound about right?
Actually the line before the pump could just be cut and the filter installed.
Patrick-
The fitting right before the fuel pump should be removed because they will at times suck air into the fuel system. The whole reason for this MOD is to keep air out of the fuel system. My .02 cents
Yeah, you could put your own together. Several here have. I decided to go with the ITP kit minus the filter since I knew I could use a cheap inline for the time being. The fuel filter bowl delete isn't in my immediate future, so it's okay the way it is for now.
The important things to fix are the quick-disconnects between the tank & pump, get rid of the mixing chamber, extend the line down the pickup foot to stop the auxiliary pickup, and extend the discharge line so any air that gets returned stays away from the intake as well as indicator float. And of course the pre-pump filter already discussed.
The instructions on the ITP site or guzzle's site should be enough to get you through it. I just didn't feel like trying to find the parts myself -- it was worth the premium to me for all the parts ready to go, pre-bent, and in one box.
im sorry i should have worded it diff what is the lowest psi rated hose that should be used. we have alot of 400psi hose at the shop would that work or is it to small?
Patrick- The fitting right before the_fuel_pump_should be removed because they will at times suck air into the fuel system. The whole reason for this MOD is to keep air out of the fuel system. My .02 cents
If you miss this step all your work will be for nothing. That goes for all the quick connects between the fuel tank and the fuel pump inlet. The fuel return does not need to be messed with, nor does anything between the fuel pump and the engine. Just the plumbing between the fuel tank and the fuel pump inlet. The air gets into the fuel stream via those quick connects because that part of the system is under a partial vacuum and it gets sucked in there. Get rid of them and use FI rated fuel hose with two hose clamps per end. If there is not enough room for two, no big deal. I simply like the redundancy for the best seal.
Last edited by Kwikkordead; Jan 15, 2008 at 11:09 AM.
im sorry i should have worded it diff what is the lowest psi rated hose that should be used. we have alot of 400psi hose at the shop would that work or is it to small?
You need four THOUSAND psi not four hundred psi hose.
I understand why you would want to extend the fuel return line to get it away from the pickup to lessen the chance on introducing air at that point. Would shortening the return line have the same effect? I have never heard that mentioned. Would it have an adverse effect? Does the return line have to be immersed in the fuel?