Well, I just bought a 429 with a C6 tranny for $250. The engine was partially stuck so I got a break in the price. It is a C9VE block with DOVE-C heads. From what I've read this is a desirable engine. The "9" stands for '69, correct? Anyway, the engine came with high compression pistons with valve recesses in them. The heads will clean up just fine and I'm going to get them ported and polished and add the larger exhaust valve. I'm going to replace the pistons with similar .060 over forged pistons and add new rods. The bottom-end will be bolted together with ARP goods. I've picked out a COMP cam with .540 intake and exhaust lift with 276 and 282 duration, respectively. The intake will be a ported Edelbrock Victor Jr. single-plane with an 850 CFM carb. The exhaust will be small-tube headers flowing through 40 series Flowmasters. The C6 will be rebuilt with a heavy-duty kit from Summit. It'll have a reverse manual valve body and approx. a 3000 rpm stall converter. All this is going in a '67-72 F100 SWB 2wd with 4.10 gears. I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to a high performance engine (seeing as how this will be radical compared to what I'm used to)so, I got Desktop Dyno to aide with my build-up. I know the results are general but it is a starting point. According to DD the hp will hit 532 at 5500rpm. The torque will be 566 at 4500 rpm. Now, this sounds like a real ground-pounder to me. What I'm concerned about is the power out-put: how much is too much? I don't want the tires to smoke every time I try to accelerate, however, I do want the ability to lay rubber when I want to. Any advice on how this truck will perform???-granted the suspension will be upgraded. I know all this is vague but any response would be most appreciated.

 

Sounds like a good street truck to me. With that combo you can have fun at the track, cruize in traffic, and have fun at the rod runs. The cam is pretty big, bordering on race, but still very streetable. Plan on running premium pump gas, and upgrade fuel supply.

You will get used to the truck. At first it may scare you but over time you can drive it like grandpa or Andretti depending on the situation. Pickups can be a tad light on the rear end, but reloacating the battery to the bed, adding a good posi, traction bars and big fat sticky tires should keep things in check.

Nick from the frozen north
1974 F-250 4X4
soon to be 429
dana 60 front and rear

 

that does indeed sound pretty mean. somethin you may want to reconsider would be the converter stall. id think about bringin it back down to 1200-1400 rpm. that would help the possible problem of tires spinning out everytime ya take off also.


-nathan

 

You might want to take a look at TCI's roller bearing package for the C6 and their 2.74:1 planetary gear set. The bearings will reduce friction (heat) in the tranny and the lower first gear will make those 4.10's feel like 4.58's.

 

>Well, I just bought a 429 with a C6 tranny for $250. The
>engine was partially stuck so I got a break in the price. It
>is a C9VE block with DOVE-C heads. From what I've read this
>is a desirable engine. The "9" stands for '69, correct?
>Anyway, the engine came with high compression pistons with
>valve recesses in them. The heads will clean up just fine
>and I'm going to get them ported and polished and add the
>larger exhaust valve. I'm going to replace the pistons with
>similar .060 over forged pistons and add new rods. The
>bottom-end will be bolted together with ARP goods. I've
>picked out a COMP cam with .540 intake and exhaust lift with
>276 and 282 duration, respectively. The intake will be a
>ported Edelbrock Victor Jr. single-plane with an 850 CFM
>carb. The exhaust will be small-tube headers flowing through
>40 series Flowmasters. The C6 will be rebuilt with a
>heavy-duty kit from Summit. It'll have a reverse manual
>valve body and approx. a 3000 rpm stall converter. All this
>is going in a '67-72 F100 SWB 2wd with 4.10 gears. I'm
>pretty ignorant when it comes to a high performance engine
>(seeing as how this will be radical compared to what I'm
>used to)so, I got Desktop Dyno to aide with my build-up. I
>know the results are general but it is a starting point.
>According to DD the hp will hit 532 at 5500rpm. The torque
>will be 566 at 4500 rpm. Now, this sounds like a real
>ground-pounder to me. What I'm concerned about is the power
>out-put: how much is too much? I don't want the tires to
>smoke every time I try to accelerate, however, I do want the
>ability to lay rubber when I want to. Any advice on how this
>truck will perform???-granted the suspension will be
>upgraded. I know all this is vague but any response would be
>most appreciated.

What are the cam specs at .050 lift? If 276 and 282 are being measured at .050 that cam will be way too much radical for any street use. Lookin at your stall converter you'll want to choose one that flashes to about 500 RPM less than your maximum torque reading for best launch. Another thing is that Victor Jr. intake...they are great for a stick car/truck but kill the much needed torque for auto equipped vehicles. You'd be much better off running a dual plane, they make more torque and are good for 6500 RPM. Your 4.11's are adequate as long as you keep your tire diameter under 32" tall...if you go above that then I'd be looking for 4.56's. Deen

 

I have to agree with Dean on the intake manifold. If you run a Wieand Stealth dual plane intake you actually have more TQ at a lower rpm. plus you will see a differance of maybe 25-30 TQ and HP. The lower your TQ comes in the better for trucks. Here is another way to ensure you have plenty of weight to keep those tires planted. You can take an old gas tank with a drain plug and place it between the frame rails. Fill it up with water and you have instant weight. Once you are done farting around doing wheelies drain the tank and you are back to normal. I have to replace my bed floor so I am going with 1/8 diamond plate steel. That will give me enough weight to hold it plus I can say it will be a whole bunch of years before the bed rots out again. Also don't forget to add a rear sway bar. Less then $200 from summit. Just my two cents.

 

That's great advice from all of you! I wasn't all that sure about the torque converter, but I'll probably go with the suggestions. I'll probably change to the Weiand intake also. The gas tank weight idea is pretty cool, too. Thanks again. Those specs for the cam are seat- to-seat measurements.