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I am going to be modifying/rebuilding a 1952 international pickup. I guess some might consider it a ford project, because it will have a ford 300 motor/tranny/rear end in it. Right now it still has a good working 220 in it, but I just fix one thing on it (almost always electrical) then I get to fix something else. For example, I just rebuilt the starter, now I got regulator problems. I keep repairing the stuff that is in it, till I can have enough money to buy the things I need to get the engine replacement on its way.
Timing belt has been change a couple of times with the last time at about 180K so, it should still be good.
Curtis, I'm going to tear into the tranny on POJ sometime in the next couple of weeks. We have had a bunch of other expenses come up and I didn't want to start until I knew I had the funds for the parts. Also, the weather may not be quite as cold either. I'll post up when I'm ready and also give you a call.
Went out last night and and finally started tearing into the front end of this thing. I got the tension pullies, water pump, and power steering pullie off. Now I am working to get the damper off. Is there any tricks to getting these things off without using the special tool? I have pullers but I can't hold it steady to get the bolt out of the center.
Went out and pulled the codes on the yota corolla yesterday. I had two, the intake air sensor and the after cat O2 sensor. I check the IA sensor and it seems to be working ok and voltage is in spec and after I put it back together it seems to be OK with no code on it yet. According to the manual the after cat O2 doesn't affect the ECM(engine contro module) so with over 213K on the car I may just put up with a CEL light and not try to fix it and just drive. I can always pull the codes every couple of weeks to see that nothing else is kaput.
Went out and pulled the codes on the yota corolla yesterday. I had two, the intake air sensor and the after cat O2 sensor. I check the IA sensor and it seems to be working ok and voltage is in spec and after I put it back together it seems to be OK with no code on it yet. According to the manual the after cat O2 doesn't affect the ECM(engine contro module) so with over 213K on the car I may just put up with a CEL light and not try to fix it and just drive. I can always pull the codes every couple of weeks to see that nothing else is kaput.
The downstream O2 sensors are there only to monitor effeciency of the cat and do not have any effect o fuel trims or anything else. HOWEVER, depending on what fault code you have it may be the result of a plugged cat which can effect driveability so keep that in mind.
I thought about the plugged cat, and with 213K on the car and it has begun to use a little oil that is a possibility. It still seems to run OK for age and condition. I just hate to spend any significant money on it at this point, but I'll listen to suggestions.
if its a plugged cat, you can hit it with a bfh and it will run better instantly. obviously by doing so you would void warentee (haha) which you obviously dont have
I have a little yota pu bed frame and axle I was usin with a wood flat bed for a trailer. I've been workin on for the April Utah trip. I pulled the wood flat bed off and went a bought some metal and cut it for the base of the box I want to build on it. Had that part welded up. I went out this mornin when the weather was nice and drilled 4 of the 12 1/2" holes in it I need to attach it to the trailer. I broke in Clints new Dewalt grinder to smooth out a couple of the welds that I need to drill 2 more holes in. Weather turned bad so I'll have to wait till another time to finish drillin the rest of the holes. I'll try to get pic's posted.
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