Compressor dryer question
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
Compressor dryer question
I'am having a problem with moisture coming out of my compressor. I have 2 inline craftsman water filters inline and I am still getting moisture. I live in the south so I imagine the humidity is the problem. Is there an easy cheap fix.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Nature of the beast, cooling effect of compressing the air causes condensation. I have a couple of inline moisture fittings that I drain, as well as the tank, before each use. Also installed additional disposible moisture filters at inlet of each paint gun. With the air tools, should lubricate before each use, it extends their life some what from damage caused by the condensation. There is a compressed air heater I understand removes majority of the moisture in the system.
dave
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Nov 26, 2007 at 12:01 AM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
From: Williamson, NY
You need to have your water separators as far as possible from your compressor, so the air has time to cool and allow the moisture to condense out. If the air does not have a chance to cool the water will pass right through the water separators. I use multiple separators in my system and I just recently added a Devilbis deseccant dryer that has totally eliminated the moisture issues I was having.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 261
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
The best units are refigerant units. They cool the air down to force the water to fall out. Dessicant dryers are next. Just have enough desicant so you can be drying the old in a oven, so you can recycle. Unless yours use the Hydroxides, then keep the stuff off of your skin. It a caustic and will eat you skin and clothes up. I use multiple centrifical units. On these you must size them based on your line size, or you do not generate the centrifical speed to force the water out.
If it's in a shop, add a drip line at all the stations helps, too.
You can never have too many driers.
I have seen some use AC Condenser coil and fan to cool the air down. If your air is hot >100F you may flash out the solvent before it hits the panel. Creating orange peal.
If it's in a shop, add a drip line at all the stations helps, too.
You can never have too many driers.
I have seen some use AC Condenser coil and fan to cool the air down. If your air is hot >100F you may flash out the solvent before it hits the panel. Creating orange peal.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
The best ECONOMICAL way to approach this is with a properly laid out plumbing system made with black pipe, ball valves and risers. The steel pipe along with the risers and the sloped main line with drain, make for VERY dry air even if no other water separators are used. I just got through laying this out in my small shop for less than $200. I not only have dry air, but I have multiple drops for different purposes.
To learn how to lay out a proper shop air line system, go to tptools.com and poke around until you find their piping layout information.
I have drug around hoses and messed around with filters and water traps for years, and NEVER had such clean dry air as I have now. I should have done this 30 years ago.
To learn how to lay out a proper shop air line system, go to tptools.com and poke around until you find their piping layout information.
I have drug around hoses and messed around with filters and water traps for years, and NEVER had such clean dry air as I have now. I should have done this 30 years ago.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 855
Likes: 5
Cujo hit it on the head. The key is to cool the air to allow all the moisture held in the air to liquify, THEN filter it. If you don't have a ton of space, a redneck way the does work would be to take an air hose and coil it in a plastic tub, fill the tub with ice and then attach a water separator on the discharge end of the hose. This will sufficiently cool the air so that the filter can adequately filter the water out.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
Yes, cooling the air is the reason for using black pipe with risers properly laid out. With a ball valve at the bottom of the runs, you drain out the moisture. This gives you cool, DRY air to be dried even further by a filter.
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 436
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by MBDiagMan
Yes, cooling the air is the reason for using black pipe with risers properly laid out. With a ball valve at the bottom of the runs, you drain out the moisture. This gives you cool, DRY air to be dried even further by a filter.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
No, you need to look at the diagram .pdf file. I will post the link, but the link police will erase it soon. If the link is gone, go to the tptools site and click at the bottom on tips and technical, then select the air line hookup .pdf.
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/ai...ng-diagram.pdf
Even if you are only going 20 feet, the advantages of laying out some black pipe using the methods shown in the diagram will help you greatly in reducing moisture by cooling the air in the black pipe, and by the use of the risers AND with the ability to drain the condensation using the bottom ball valves. Just drain moisture from the compressor tank and all down pipe ball valves before starting your paint job.
With even one pipe that goes up from the compressor to a main line that slopes down with a riser off of it that goes to a down pipe with a ball valve above and below another riser that goes to a coalescing filter, you will have a layout that will help greatly in giving you cool, clean, dry air.
Just study the diagram. It works.
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/ai...ng-diagram.pdf
Even if you are only going 20 feet, the advantages of laying out some black pipe using the methods shown in the diagram will help you greatly in reducing moisture by cooling the air in the black pipe, and by the use of the risers AND with the ability to drain the condensation using the bottom ball valves. Just drain moisture from the compressor tank and all down pipe ball valves before starting your paint job.
With even one pipe that goes up from the compressor to a main line that slopes down with a riser off of it that goes to a down pipe with a ball valve above and below another riser that goes to a coalescing filter, you will have a layout that will help greatly in giving you cool, clean, dry air.
Just study the diagram. It works.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rhino_160
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
2
Oct 5, 2010 03:59 AM