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I'm having problems with my key switch on my 85 F250 w/ tilt column. It doesn't always move the actuator rod completely, which means it sometimes won't start. I've got the column down and discombloomerated. the actuator rod works fine with a pair of pliers, but when the key is turned, the upper actuator turns sideways instead of sliding in its groove.
What is suposed to hold the upper actuator in the groove anyway? The slightest amount of pressure makes it turn sideways and come out of the groove instead of sliding. No "spare" parts fell out, and I can't see where anything else would/should go.
All of the Autozone pics I've seen so far appear to be copies out of a Chilton's book, and don't show enough detail to guide me in my errant ways.
The part I'm concerned with is the part (not shown) that item 14 pushes against. There's nothing to keep it from rotating out of the track instead of sliding straight & pushing the rod.
Bear with me here. I had this apart about 6 months ago, and if I remember correctly, item 14 is the gear rack that has teeth on it. And the piece it pushes against is item 15. Item 15 has a roll pin in it that hooks to item 14, but I can't remember exactly how it went. I do know the roll pin had to come out, and I almost broke off the ear on the new #15 re-installing the roll pin. Looking at the picture, I don't see any pieces not shown where we are talking about.
Item 15 has a roll pin in it that hooks to item 14, but I can't remember exactly how it went. I do know the roll pin had to come out, and I almost broke off the ear on the new #15 re-installing the roll pin.
Yeah, that cast aluminum piece that connects to the rod has a roll pin to keep the rod from popping out. This part rides in a groove as the rack pushes it, but I can find no method of keeping it in the groove.
Last edited by pchristman; Nov 25, 2007 at 01:31 PM.
I took apart another truck, and it appears that item 15 is the part I'm talking about. Evidently the long arm that rides through the casting has broken off of my original. The one on the donor looks good, but I cannot figure how to get it out without undoing the pivot points of the tilt device. How in the world do I go about it?
I put some pictures in my gallery, but cannot tell if they are big enough to do any good.
Let's see if I can remember this. I had to go to the dealer service dept myself, and they let me talk to a guy who "does the steering column work". Here's what I remember;
You have to pull the pins out of either side of the column. Find a little screw that threads in, and then take a claw hammer and pull them out. Here's the tricky part. He said do not take the whole thing apart. He said pull the pins, take loose a snap ring at the shaft, and then carefully pull the hole tilt part down, without taking it totally loose and having it fly apart with that spring in there. It does work, and you can shove it down just enough for that cast piece #15 to slide free.
I remember having to do some trick to get the broken piece out, but I can't remember if I used super glue on a nail, or something like that.
Bear with me here. I had this apart about 6 months ago, and if I remember correctly, item 14 is the gear rack that has teeth on it
Tilt Wheel
#14 isn't the 'gear rack.' In fact the 'gear rack' isn't shown in the tilt wheel illustration you posted.
(See item #20 in the non tilt wheel illustration. The 'gear rack' seems to have wandered over to the wrong illustration).
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#14 is: D1AZ-3E723-A .. Steering Column Lock Actuator
Used: 1978/91 F100/350; Bronco & Econoline / 1971/79 (and later) Ford passenger cars.
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#15 is: D4AZ-3E715-A > > Replaced by > > E9TZ-3E715-A.. Steering Column Lock Lever Actuator
Used: 1978/91 F100/350; Bronco & Econoline / 1974/79 (and later) Ford Passenger cars.
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The "gear rack" is: E2TZ-3B661-A .. Steering Column Lever Lock
You have to pull the pins out of either side of the column. Find a little screw that threads in, and then take a claw hammer and pull them out. Here's the tricky part. He said do not take the whole thing apart. He said pull the pins, take loose a snap ring at the shaft, and then carefully pull the hole tilt part down, without taking it totally loose and having it fly apart with that spring in there. It does work, and you can shove it down just enough for that cast piece #15 to slide free.
I remember having to do some trick to get the broken piece out, but I can't remember if I used super glue on a nail, or something like that.
Thanks for your guidance & perseverance. I was at a loss for those pins. I took the snap ring loose (good tip) & pulled the pins & got the easy broken part out. The other half was flush with the casting, but I managed to snag it with the point of my knife & get it out far enough to reach with pliers. Reversed the prodedure, and now that part is done.
All I have to do now is remember how all the other 8,342 pieces go back together. I managed to drop a small snap spring in the gravel (the one that holds the tilt rod down in its saddle. If I don't find it in the daylight tomorrow I'll have to make something else fit.